Better Dorm Boots - Lace Edition - Free Knitting Pattern!

I wondered what the "Better dorm boots" would look like with a little bit of lace running up the center.... I really like them!  Hope you do too.  

To download, view, or print this pattern, scroll down past the last photos and click on the link.

Materials:  
Worsted weight yarn (use 2 strands of worsted held tog.)

Sole:  92(100, 114) yds

Slipper body: 92(110, 124) yds

U.S. Size 9 (5.5mm) Needles

Wms Sizes: Sm (6-7.5), M/L (8-9), XL (9.5-10.5)

Gauge: 14 sts = 4” in Stockinette 

Abbreviations:

• k = knit
• p = purl
• yo = yarn over
• sl-1 = slip one
• PSSO = pass slipped stitch over
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit (see how to perform one of these descreases if you don't know, google it)
• WS = wrong side
• RS = right side
• PM = place marker
• SM = slip marker

Starting with Sole:

Using sole color, Cast on 47(50,52) sts using a long-tail method and with 2 strands held together.

Row 1: Knit.

Row 2: K1, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k1(2,2), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k1. [51(54,56) sts]


Row 3 and all odd rows: Knit.  *knit the yo’s through the back of the loop. 

Row 4: K2, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k3(4,4), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k2.  [55(58,60)sts]


Row 6: K3, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k5(6,6), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k3.  [59(62,64)sts]

Row 8: K4, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k7(8,8), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k4. [63(66,68) sts]


Row 10: K5, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k9(10,10), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k5.  [67(70,72)sts]
 

Row 12: Size Sm ONLY: k6, yo, k22, yo, k11, yo, k22, yo, k6. [71sts]

Row 12: Sizes M/L & XL ONLY: K6, yo, k(23,24), yo, k6, yo, k6, yo, (k23,24), yo, k6. [75,77 sts]

Row 13: Sizes Sm & M/L proceed to #1 of foot.
              
Row 13: Size XL: Knit  (knit the yo's through the back of the loop)

  ------------------------

FOOT 

Change color now if making foot different color than sole.

Row 1: Sizes Sm & M/L ONLY: (RS) Knit (knit the yo’s through the back of the loop) [71(75,--sts]

Row 1: Size XL ONLY: (RS) Knit


Row 2: (WS) P31(33,34), PM, p9(9,9,) PM, p31(33,34).


Row 3: K24(26,27), ssk 2x, k3tog, SM, p2, k5, p2, SM, sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k24(26,27).  [63(67,69)sts] 

Row 4: Purl to M, k2, p5, k2, p to end. 

Row 5: K20(22,23), ssk 2x, k3tog, SM, p2, k2tog, yf, k1, yf, sl-1, k1, psso, p2, SM, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k20(22,23).    [55(59,61)sts]

Row 6: Purl to M, k2, p5, k2, p to end. 

Row 7: K23(25,26), p2, k5, p2, ssk,
 turn.    [54(58,60) sts]

Row 8: Sl-1, k2, p5, k2, p2tog,
 turn.   [53(57,59) sts]

Row 9: Sl-1, SM, p2, k2tog, yf, k1, yf, sl-1, k1, psso, p2, SM, ssk, turn.
  [52(56,58) sts] 

Row 10: Sl-1, k2,p5, k2, p2tog, turn.  [51(55,57)sts]

Row 11: Sl-1, p2, k5, p2, ssk,
 turn. [50(54,56) sts]

Row 12: Sl-1, k2, p5, k2, p2tog,
 turn. [49(53,55) sts]

Row 13: Sl-1, SM, p2, k2tog, yf, k1, yf, sl-1, k1, psso, p2, SM, ssk, turn.
   [48(52,54) sts]

Row 14: Sl-1, k2, p5, k2, p2tog, turn.  [47(51,53) sts]

Rows 15- 18: Repeat rows 11-14   [43(47,49) sts]
Rows 19-22: Repeat rows 11-14  [39(43,45) sts]
Rows 23-26: Repeat rows 11-14 [35(39,41) sts]

Row 27: (RS) Sl-1, p2, k5, p2, ssk, DON’T TURN, k11(13,14).   [34(38,40) sts]

Row 28: P12(14,15) k2, p5, k2,  p2tog, p11(13,14).  [33(37,39) sts]

Row 29: Removing markers as you come to them, knit one row.

Row 30: Size Sm ONLY: P1, p2tog, p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.   [31 sts] 

Row 30: Sizes M/L & XL ONLY:  P1, p2tog, p2tog, p across to last 5 sts, p2tog, p2tog, p1           [33, 35sts]

Row 31:  Knit

Row 32:  Purl

Rows 33-40: Rep rows 31 & 32 4x.


------------------------------- 

Cuff  (change color here if you want cuff to be a different color)

Row 41: Size Sm ONLY: k1, p1, across, end with K1.  Now go to row 44-45.  

Row 41: Size M/L ONLY: [k1, p1] 8x, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] to end.  Now go to row 44-45.    [32,-- sts]

Row 41 & 42: Size XL ONLY: Repeat rows 31 & 32 once more.  

Row 43: Size XL ONLY: [k1, p1] 8x, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] to end.   [--,34 sts]

Rows 44-45: 1x1 rib.
Row 46: Purl
Row 47: Knit
Row 48: Purl
Row 49: Bind off loosely.

Sew seam using single strand of matching color(s).  I turn the slipper inside out and seam using a simple whipstitch.  Take care to make your stitches small and close together for best results. 

Weave in any loose ends. 

Wear and enjoy!

To Download, View or Print, click on the link below: 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_oZ8-XeMq3pc2hfaDB5Z2VBMlE/view?usp=sharing 

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Better Dorm Boots - Free Knitting Pattern!

I see so many projects on Ravelry where the knitter has used my Crocodilly Mocs pattern and changed it up a bit with a ribbed cuff instead of the crocodile stitch.  I'd thought I'd go ahead and write it up as a pattern for those not interested in a croc stitch cuff.  

This really is, in my opinion, a better "dorm boot".  Made the same way as the traditional dorm boot, knit flat and seamed at the end.  These knit up fairly fast - I can knit one slipper in 2 hours. 

To download, view or print this pattern, scroll down past the last picture and click on the link.

Materials:  
Worsted weight yarn (use 2 strands of worsted held tog.)

Sole:  92(100, 114) yds

Slipper body: 92(110, 124) yds

U.S. Size 9 (5.5mm) needles

Wms Sizes: Sm (6-7.5), M/L (8-9), XL (9.5-10.5)

Gauge: 14 sts = 4” in Stockinette (w yarn held double)

Abbreviations:

• k = knit
• p = purl
• yo = yarn over
• sl-1 = slip one
•  PSSO = pass slipped stitch over
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit (see how to perform one of these descreases if you don't know, google it)
• WS = wrong side
• RS = right side
• PM = place marker

Starting with Sole:

Using sole color, Cast on 47(50,52) sts using a long-tail method and with 2 strands held together.

Row 1: Knit.

Row 2: K1, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k1(2,2), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k1. [51(54,56) sts]


Row 3 and all odd rows: Knit.  *knit the yo’s through the back of the loop. 

Row 4: K2, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k3(4,4), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k2.  [55(58,60)sts]


Row 6: K3, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k5(6,6), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k3.  [59(62,64)sts]

Row 8: K4, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k7(8,8), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k4. [63(66,68) sts]


Row 10: K5, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k9(10,10), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k5.  [67(70,72)sts]
 

Row 12: Size Sm ONLY: k6, yo, k22, yo, k11, yo, k22, yo, k6. [71sts]

Row 12: Sizes M/L & XL ONLY: K6, yo, k(23,24), yo, k6, yo, k6, yo, (k23,24), yo, k6. [75,77 sts]

Row 13: Sizes Sm & M/L proceed to #1 of foot.
              
Row 13: Size XL: Knit  (knit the yo's through the back of the loop)

  ------------------------

FOOT 

Change color now if making foot different color than sole.

Row 1: Size Sm ONLY:  (RS)  k34, k2tog, k35. (knit the yo's through the back of the loop)   [70 sts]

Row 1: Size M/L ONLY: (RS) Knit (knit the yo’s through the back of the loop)

Row 1: Size XL ONLY: (RS) Knit


Row 2: (WS) P31(33,34), PM, p8(9,9), PM, p31(33,34).


Row 3: K24(26,27), ssk 2x, k3tog, k8(9,9), sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k24(26,27). [62(67,69)sts) 

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: K20(22,23), ssk 2x, k3tog, k8(9,9), sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k20(22,23). 54(59,61)sts]

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: K31(34,35),  ssk, turn.  [53(58,60) sts]

Row 8: Sl-1, p8(9,9), p2tog,
 turn.   [52(57,59) sts]

Row 9: Sl-1, k8(9,9), ssk, turn.
  [51(56,58) sts] 

Row 10: Sl-1, p8(9,9), p2tog, turn.  [50(55,57) sts]

Rows 11-26: Repeat rows 9 and 10.   [34(39,41)sts]


Row 27: (RS) Sl-1, k8(9,9), ssk, DON’T TURN, k11(13,14).   [33(38,40)sts]

Row 28: P20(23,24), p2tog, p11(13,14).  [32(37,39) sts]

Row 29: Removing markers as you come to them, knit one row.

Row 30: Size Sm ONLY: P1, p2tog, p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.    [30 sts].

Row 30: Sizes M/L and XL ONLY:  P1, p2tog, p2tog, p across to last 5 sts, p2tog, p2tog, p1           [33, 35sts]

Row 31:  Knit

Row 32:  Purl

-------------------------------

Ribbed Cuff (change color here if you want cuff to be a different color)

Row 33: Size Sm ONLY: k1, p1 to end.  Now go to row 36-42.  

Row 33: Size M/L ONLY: [k1, p1] 8x, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] to end.  Now go to row 36-42.            (32,34 sts)

Row 33&34: Size XL ONLY: Repeat rows 31 & 32 once more.  

Row 35: Size XL ONLY: [k1, p1] 8x, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] to end. (32,34 sts) 

Rows 36-42: 1x1 rib. 

Bind off loosely.

Sew seam using single strand of matching color(s).  I turn the slipper inside out and seam using a simple whipstitch.  Take care to make your stitches small and close together for best results. 

Weave in any loose ends. 

Wear and enjoy!

P.S. I lightly spray the bottoms of my slippers with the spray version of "Plasti-Dip" for a non-skip sole.  

To download, view or print this pattern click here: 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_oZ8-XeMq3peDRLQW9EYUhxc0E/view?usp=sharing

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Playing with thread lace patterns on my kh-270 knitting machine.

Hadn't ever made anything using the thread lace patterning on either my kh-965i or my bulky kh-270 knitting machine.  Thought I'd play a bit today with the bulky.


This first scarf was 40 stitches wide, tension 5.  Using a worsted weight wool (it was a light worsted) as my main yarn, and a very fine cone yarn (no label so I don't know what it was),  as my contrast thread, I used pattern number 227 and knit 1 set up row, set my pattern, put second color in carriage and knit to 400 rows.  Cut second color, turn off patterning and knit one row, latch tool bind off.

The second scarf was 44 stitches wide, tension 7.  Using worsted weight yarn (Plymouth Encore) as my main yarn, and a very fine cone yarn as my contrast thread, I used pattern number 209, and knit 1 set up row, set my pattern, knit across, put second color in carriage and knit to 300 rows. Cut second color, turn off patterning and knit one row, latch tool bind off.

This 3rd scarf was 48 stitches wide, tension 5, Using sock weight yarn as my main yarn, and a very fine cone yarn as my contrast thread, I used pattern number 227 and knit 1 set up row, set my pattern, knit across, put second color in carriage and knit to 325 rows.  Cut second color, turn off patterning and knit one row, latch tool bind off.












All vary in length but can easily be looped around to make a nice looking scarf length.  I steam blocked them lightly but still have the dreaded curl so I think I will have to go back and more aggressively block them.  I can't decide if I will add fringe to these or leave them as is.  I like them all, especially the first one.

Want to see my Machine Knit dishcloth "study"?  Click HERE

A skeet shooting set for my nephew - Knit

I had seen a picture of someones project of a cute little french sailor stuffie on one of the knitting groups, I thought how cute it would be to make a little hunting buddy for my little nephew.
I come from a hunting/shooting family.  My nephew now sees his daddy get ready to go shooting or hunting and of course he is far to little to go along.  For his birthday I got him a plastic shotgun and crocheted him some pretend "sporting clays" to shoot at.  (the gun doesn't actually shoot anything, just makes a sound, but he can pretend to shoot).  The little orange discs actually fly REALLY well when you toss them (as you toss a frisbee).
I also then knit 3 "hunting buddies".  The hunting buddies can stand and watch him shoot his sporting clays.  I thought I'd give a brief recap of how I made everything.

*I am posting this for others who might want to make the same thing - not asking for any political comments about hunting, shooting or guns.  We all have our own beliefs. We are generations of a gun safe family who has always followed the gun safety guidelines, obeyed the law etc. *

The little "hunting buddies" could be made to be fishing buddies, football buddies, hockey buddies, etc.  I plan on doing more ideas later.

The hunting buddies were made based on a picture I saw - the person who made hers used this freebie pattern: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/petit-marin-2 

The pattern is in french I don't read french, so I winged it.  Here is how I did mine. 

Using #2 (2.75 mm) needles and sock weight type yarns.
Cast on 52 sts.
St st 6 rows of black or brown for shoes/boots
St st 4 rows of white for socks
St st 30 rows of camo yarn for pants
St st 24 rows of shirt color
Switch to #1 (2.25 mm) needles
1x1 rib for 1 row (still in shirt color)
Switch back to #2 needle
15 rows of face color
k3, k2tog, repeat across
k2, k2tog, repeat across
k1, k2tog, repeat across
k2tog, repeat across
Cut yarn, using daring needle, thread thru remaining stitches and pull to gather. Knot securely.

Before stitching the back seam I hand stitched the detail of the face (eyes, eyebrows, mouth).

Next I stitched the back seam of my little guy using my sewing machine.  
Using a darning needle, I then used one color yarn (I tried to use one that was the most generic and blended in with the colors used for the clothing, in my case it was a med. green.) First I gathered just below the 1x1 ribbing of the neck, then I stitched the shaping of the legs and arms.  I started by slightly gathering at the ankles, then I stitched the center leg to crotch area.  Next I stitched the arm definition.
Lastly I used the same yarn as I knit for the shoes and stitched the bottoms of the shoes closed.

To make the beanie type hat I used #2 needle, cast on 52 sts

15 rows of hat color
k3, k2tog, repeat across
k2, k2tog, repeat across
k1, k2tog, repeat across
k2tog, repeat across
Cut yarn, using daring needle, thread thru remaining stitches and pull to gather. Knot securely.
Sew back seam.
Make pom-pom, sew on pom pom.

The scarves were made a variety of ways but only took minutes - it can be a short length of knitting or crochet - I'm sure you can figure it out.  You could also cut a tiny square kerchief out of fabric also.

To make the sporting clays I crocheted them. 

Using size F (3.75 mm) crochet hook
ch 2
6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl into 1st sc to join.
ch1 & 2 sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in each sc around sl into 1st sc to join .  [12 sc]
ch1 & sc in 1st sc, *2 sc in next, 1 sc in next*, rep to end of round, end with 2 sc in last sc. Sl to join.
ch1 & sc in 1st sc, 1 sc, 2 sc in next, *2 sc, 2 sc in next*, rep to end of round. Sl to join. [24 sc]
ch1 & sc in 1st sc, 2 sc, 2 sc in next, *3 sc, 2 sc in next*, rep to end of round. Sl to join. [30 sc]
ch1 & sc in 1st sc, 3 , sc, 2 sc in next, *4 sc, 2 sc in next*, rep to end of round. Sl to join. [36 sc]
ch1 & sc in 1st sc, 4 sc, 2 sc in next, *5 sc, 2 sc in next*, rep to end of round. Sl to join. [42 sc]
ch1 & sc in 1st sc, 5 sc, 2 sc in next, *6 sc, 2 sc in next*, rep to end of round. Sl to join. [48 sc]
Cut yarn and secure.
Make another one the same way but don't cut yarn at the end, and ch1.  Hold the first one behind and against the second one, sc into the both of them held together, continue to sc the two together until you reach the end of the round.  Sl into the first sc, ch 1 & sc into same sc as join, 9 sc, sc2tog, *10 sc, sc2tog* rep to end of round. Sl into first sc, tie off and cut yarn.
One sporting clay complete!  I made 6 of these to make a "set".  I had the perfect size little box to put them in and I wrote wording and made a drew and colored the sporting clay on the box.

Indian Summer Top

©2016 Kris Basta

A late summer/early fall pullover that looks great with a colorful tank top underneath.  Knit with a cotton or cotton blend worsted weight yarn, this top is cool and drapey.  This is knit on circular needles, you will start with a shorter needle but then once you've increased to a certain point that the stitches get crowded on the needle, you will want to switch to a longer circular needle to accommodate the larger number of stitches.  As this is a garter stitch project, and is knit in the round, you will be knitting one row, then purling the next.

Edited for a few corrections on 8/14/16

To Download, view, or print this pattern, scroll to the bottom of the directions and click on the link.

Size: one size fits bust size 34 - 38  (*please note, this pattern can easily be upsized or downsized simply by increasing or decreasing in increments of 2, to your own fit).

Materials and Tools:
Cotton or cotton blend worsted weight yarn, I used Cascade yarns "Avalon"
4.5 skeins 790 yds.

8 Stitch Markers - I suggest having one that is a different color from the other 7.

Circular Knitting Needles
Size 10 (6 mm), length 24" and length 36"
Size 9 (5.5mm)
2 Spare circular needles (size not terribly important) or holders to hold many stitches.

Gauge: 15 sts and 28 rows = 4" in Garter Stitch.

Abbreviations:
K = knit
P = purl
PM = place marker
yo = yarn over
k2tog = knit 2 together
SM = slip marker
Rep = repeat
rnd = round
M = marker

Tips:

• I recommend using the markers if you are a person who heavily relys on markers.  I myself don't actually use them once I know the established pattern (the yarn overs with one stitch between), but that is your option if you use them or not.

• On this pattern please note that the largest number of stitches between markers are the sleeves, not the body.  I know that seems weird but trust me that is correct.  

DIRECTIONS:

Using the shorter #10 circular needle and long tail cast on method,
Cast on 84 sts and join in the round.
1.  Knit
2.  Purl
3.  *k2tog, yo, rep from * to end.
4.  Purl
5.  Knit
6.  P27, PM, p1, PM, p13, PM, p1, PM, P27, PM, p1, PM, p13, PM, p1, PM. (Please make this last marker the one that is the different color from the others as this will mark your starting point.)

7.  Slip the first (diff colored) marker, Yo, k to M, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to M, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to M, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to M, yo, SM, k1.   [92 sts]

8.  Slipping markers as you go, purl around.

9.  Rep rows 7 & 8 until you have 332 sts (change to longer circular needle when you get to crowded on the shorter needle)  Total sts should be like this, 89 sts and 1 st between M's in first section(sleeve), 75 sts and 1 st between M's in second section(body), 89 sts and 1 st in between M's in 3rd section(sleeve), and 75 sts and 1 st between M's in last section(body).

10. *Please note, you will now be increasing the sleeve sections but NOT increasing the body sections.
Slip the first (diff colored) marker, k to M, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k2tog, k to 2 before M, k2tog, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to M, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k2tog, k to 2 before M, k2tog, yo, SM, k1.    [336 sts]

11. Slipping markers as you go, purl around.

12. Rep 10 & 11 until you have 344 sts like this, 95 sts and 1 st between M's in first section, 75 sts and 1 st between M's in second section, 95 sts and 1 st in between M's in 3rd section, and 75 sts and 1 st between M's in last section).

13. Slip the first (diff colored) marker, *yo, k2tog, k to 2 before M, k2tog, yo, SM, k1.  Rep from * around. (this will keep the yarn over pattern but will not increase any further).

14.  Slipping markers as you go, purl around.

15. Rep 13 & 14 until piece measures 12" from cast on edge.

16. Knit (do not do any yarn overs)
17. Purl

You will now separate the body from the sleeves.

18. Removing M's as you go:  Use 2nd needle, or a scrap piece of yarn to hold the first 96 sts (these are a sleeve),  continue now and knit the next 76 sts, again using a spare needle or scrap yarn, place the next 96 sts on hold (second sleeve), continue and knit the next 76 sts.  You now have a total of 152 sts that are the front & back of the body.  The stitches on the holders/spare needles are your sleeves.

Work body stitches:

PM to mark beg of rnd.  Continue now working in the round for the body,
19 Purl
20 Knit
21 Purl
22. Rep #19 & 20 until you have 15 garter ridges from underarm.
23. YO, k2tog, rep to end.
24. Change to Size 9 needle, Purl.
25. Knit.
26. Purl
27. Bind off.

Work sleeves both this same way:
28. Using #10 needle, Tie on yarn at underarm, knit around, pick up and knit 2 stitches at the end from the body, PM.
29. Purl
30. Knit
31. Purl
32-33. Rep 30 & 31 1x more. (if you'd like your sleeves a bit longer than shown in the pictures, then here is where you'd want to add more rows of garter)

34. YO, k2tog, rep to end.
Change to Size 9 needle
35. Purl
36. Knit
37. Purl
38. Bind off.

39. Weave in all yarn ends.
I did not block mine, I simply washed it in the washing machine, dried it half way in my dryer, then laid it flat to dry the rest of the way.

To download, view, or print this pattern, click on this link: 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_oZ8-XeMq3pWi1yNVJlcTJITms/view?usp=sharing

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Free Crochet Pattern - Ahh Spa Slippers for Men

Spaaaah comfortable. 

Now in Men's sizes!  
This pattern has been fully tested by a wonderful group of Ravelry testers.
Working a sequence of front loop only and back loop only makes for a unique shaping.  Yarn held double, large hook size and SC's throughout, this works up SUPER fast!  These are soft and squooshy and would make a wonderful gift. Very easy, I would call this a easy-intermediate pattern. 
To Download, View, or Print  this pattern please scroll all the way down past the pictures and click on the link.
For Women's sizes click here: Ahh Spa Slippers for Women

 

Materials/Tools

Worsted weight yarn (held double) 240-325 yds
Size J (6mm) Crochet hook 
Darning needle
1 stitch marker (or paper clip if you're desperate!)

 Gauge: 

3 sc per inch & 3.5 rows per inch in sc.

Mens Sizes: Sm(M, L, XL) 

 SM = 8/9, M = 9.5/10.5, L =11/12, XL =12.5/13.5

 

Abbreviations:

sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
sctbl = single crochet through back loop
sctfl = single crochet through front loop
sc2togtbl = single crochet 2 together through back loop
ch1 = chain 1
slst = slip stitch
rep = repeat

References:

Magic ring for crochet:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLUaywX0-WE
  

Did you do a gauge swatch?  If not, don't be mad if your slipper is too small/large....

Directions

* You will use 2 strands of Yarn held together throughout

Using Magic ring, sc 8(8,9,9) in ring, join with slst.

1. Ch1, 2 sc in join and 2 sc in each sc, join with slst in top of ch1 .     16(16,18,18) scs
2. Sm ONLY: Ch1, 2 sc in join and 2 sc in each of next 6 scs, 1 sc, 2 sc in each of next 7 sc, 1 sc.   (30) scs
M ONLY:  Ch1, 2sc in join and 2 sc in each sc.     (32) scs
L ONLY:  Ch1, 1 sc in join, 2 sc in each of next 7 scs, 1 sc, 2 sc in each of next 8 sc, 1 sc. (33) scs
XL ONLY: Ch1, 1 sc in join, 2 sc in each of next 8 sc, 1 sc, 2 sc in each of last 8 scs. (34) scs
    
*Now you will work in rounds, no need to join with slst just go right to next stitch in round. 

3. 11(12,12,13) sctfl, 2 sctbl, 2 sctfl, 11(12,13,13) sctbl, 2 sctfl, 2 sctbl. 


4. Rep step 3 for 14(14,15,16) more rounds.  You should have 15(15,16,17) ridges on bottom of foot. (do not count the last row you worked, just the visible ridges in previous rows.

At this point you should try it on, the ridges are at the bottom of the foot.  Your slipper foot should be of length to fit about like this (pictures below) and should be about 1" (ish) from the crook of your foot/ankle. *You can always add one more row or pull out one more row to get the right foot length, just make sure to count your ridges to make the second one the same way.

Now you will turn and work on the heel, on just 19(20,21,21) sts. (you are no longer working in the round). Normally you ch1 and turn but for these slippers you do NOT ch1 when you turn.  Simply turn, making sure you do not skip the first sc.

5.  19(20,21,21) sc, turn.

6.  Rep last row 6x(7x,8x,9x) more.

7.  7(7,7,7) sc, sc2tog, 1(2,3,3) sc, sc2tog, 7(7,7,7) sc.     17(18,19,19) sts
    

8.   6(6,6,6) sc, sc2tog, 1(2,3,3) sc, sc2tog, 6(6,6,6)

     15(15,17,17) sts
      

9.  Pull up your last loop slightly, just so it doesn't come undone, pull out the hook, fold heel in half as shown in picture, insert hook from the opposite side of the last stitch worked.  Grab loop and pull it through the opposite side, ch1.  Please note that there will be a gap/hole created where the two sides of the heel come together - this is correct, you will stitch that closed later.

Now you will work in the round again making the cuff of the slipper.

10.  10(11,12,13) sc down the side of the slipper, 11(12,12,13) sc across the top (front) of slipper, 10(11,12,13) sc across the other side of slipper, use marker to mark the beginning sc, no need to join with a slst, just keep working in the round.    31(34,36,39) sts

11. 9(10,11,12) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 9(10,10,11) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 9(10,11,12) sctbl.  Remove marker from row below and now place in first sc. 29(32,34,37) sts

12. 8(9,10,11) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 9(10,10,11) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 8(9,10,11) sctbl, join with a slst into top of first sc.

Cut yarn, fasten off.

Turn slipper inside out to stitch the open gap.  Use a darning needle and a tail of yarn.

Also make sure you secure the tail from the original magic ring so that it does not come undone.

To Download, view, or print this pattern, click on the link for the PDF file:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_oZ8-XeMq3pU0F5bDJxNzhkbGc/view?usp=sharing

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Free Crochet Pattern: Ahh Spa Slippers for Women

© 2016 Kris Basta

Spaaaah comfortable.

This pattern has been fully tested by a wonderful group of Ravelry testers.
Working a sequence of front loop only and back loop only makes for a unique shaping.  Yarn held double, large hook size and SC's throughout, this works up SUPER fast!  These are soft and squooshy and would make a wonderful gift. Very easy, I would call this a easy-intermediate pattern.
To Download, View, or Print  this pattern please scroll all the way down past the pictures and click on the link.
For Men's sizes click here: Men's Ahh Spa Slippers

 

Materials/Tools

Worsted weight yarn (held double) 200-295 yds
Size J (6mm) Crochet hook
Darning needle
1 stitch marker (or paper clip if you're desperate!)

 Gauge: 

3 sc per inch & 3.5 rows per inch in sc.

Sizes: Sm(M, L, XL)

 SM = 6/7.5, M = 8/9, L =9.5/10, XL =10.5/11

 

Abbreviations:

sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
sctbl = single crochet through back loop
sctfl = single crochet through front loop
sc2togtbl = single crochet 2 together through back loop
ch1 = chain 1
slst = slip stitch
rep = repeat

References:

Magic ring for crochet:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLUaywX0-WE 

Did you do a gauge swatch?  If not, don't be mad if your slipper is too small/large....

Directions

* You will use 2 strands of Yarn held together throughout

Using Magic ring, sc 7(,7,8,8) in ring, join with slst.

1. Ch1, 2 sc in join and 2 sc in each sc, join with slst in top of ch1 .     14(14,16,16) scs
2. SM/M/XL ONLY:  Ch1, 2sc in join and 2 sc in each sc.     28(28,---,32) scs
    LG ONLY: Ch1, 2 sc in join and 2 sc in each of next 6 scs, 1 sc, 2 sc in each of next 7 sc, 1 sc.   (30) scs

*Now you will work in rounds, no need to join with slst just go right to next stitch in round.

3. 10(10,11,12) sctfl, 2 sctbl, 2 sctfl, 10(10,11,12) sctbl, 2 sctfl, 2 sctbl.


4. Rep step 3 for 12(13,14,14) more rounds.  You should have 13(14,15,15) ridges on bottom of foot. (do not count the last row you worked, just the visible ridges in previous rows.

At this point you should try it on, the ridges are at the bottom of the foot.  Your slipper foot should be of length to fit about like this (pictures below) and should be about 1" (ish) from the crook of your foot/ankle. *You can always add one more row or pull out one more row to get the right foot length, just make sure to count your ridges to make the second one the same way.

Now you will turn and work on the heel, on just 18(18,19,20) sts. (you are no longer working in the round). Normally you ch1 and turn but for these slippers you do NOT ch1 when you turn.  Simply turn, making sure you do not skip the first sc.

5.  18(18,19,20) sc, turn.

6.  Rep last row 6x(6x,6x,7x) more.

7.  6(6,7,7) sc, sc2tog, 2(2,1,2) sc, sc2tog, 6(6,7,7) sc.     16(16,17,18) sts

8.  Size Sm & Med ONLY: 5(5,-,-) sc, sc2tog 3x, 5(5,-,-) scs.
     Size Lg & XL ONLY: -(-, 6,6) sc, sc2tog, -(-,1,2) sc, sc2tog, -(-,6,6)
     13(13,15,16) sts

9.  Pull up your last loop slightly, just so it doesn't come undone, pull out the hook, fold heel in half as shown in picture, insert hook from the opposite side of the last stitch worked.  Grab loop and pull it through the opposite side, ch1.  Please note that there will be a gap/hole created where the two sides of the heel come together - this is correct, you will stitch that closed later.

Now you will work in the round again making the cuff of the slipper.
10.  10(10,10,11) sc down the side of the slipper, 10(10,11,12) sc across the top (front) of slipper, 10(10,10,11) sc across the other side of slipper, use marker to mark the beginning sc, no need to join with a slst, just keep working in the round.    30(30,31,34) sts
11.  9(9,9,10) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 8(8,9,10) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 9(9,9,10) sctbl.  Remove marker from row below and now place in first sc. 28(28,29,32) sts
12.  8(8,8,9) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 8(8,9,10) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 8(8,8,9) sctbl, join with a slst into top of first sc.
Cut yarn, fasten off.

Turn slipper inside out to stitch the open gap.  Use a darning needle and a tail of yarn.
Also make sure you secure the tail from the original magic ring so that it does not come undone.

To Download, view, or print this pattern, click on the link for the PDF file:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_oZ8-XeMq3pczJ0Zzl6aUhiZ1k/view?usp=sharing

Back to Pattern Index