Cutie Cupcake Dolls - Free Knitting Pattern!

I saw this posted on a Facebook group - this is so cute I just had to ask if I could put her pattern notes on my blog.  

Cutie Cupcake Dolls Pattern by Kristy Roberts
(published with permission)

Materials:
DK yarn
size 3 (3.25mm) Needles 


Abbreviations:
CO = cast on
KFB = knit in front and back (this is an increase)
p =purl
k =knit
Stst = stockinette stitch (knit one row, then purl the next row)
K2tog = knit 2 stitches together (this is a decrease)



 ©Kristy Roberts 2017
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Chippyrabbit/cutie-cupcake-dolls

*This is knitted flat, starting at the bottom and working upward.

Base of cupcake
1. CO 6 sts 
2. KFB across. [12 sts]
3. P 
4. *KFB, K1 repeat from * across. [18 sts] 
5. P 
6. *KFB, K1 repeat from * across. [27 sts] 
7. P 
8. *KFB, K2 repeat from * across. [36 sts] 
9. P 
10. *KFB, K2 repeat from * across. [49 sts] 
11. Knit (to create fold line)

Skirt 
1-18. Work 18 rows in K1, P1 to create rib. 
19. Bind off in purl (firmly).

Body 
1. Pick up and K 36 stitches on wrong side opposite fold line. 
2-4. Stst 3 rows 
5. *k4, k2tog, repeat from * across. 
6. Stst 3 rows. 
7. *k3, k2tog, repeat from * across. 
8. P 
9. *k1, k2tog, repeat from * across.

**change to head color 
1. Stst 3 rows. 
2. *Kfb, k1, repeat from * across. 
3. P 
4. *Kfb, k1, repeat from * across. 
5. Stst 7 rows 
6. *K4, k2tog, repeat from * across. 
7. P 
8. *K3, k2tog, repeat from * across. 
9. P 
10. *K1, k2tog, repeat from * across. 
11. P 
12. K2tog across.
13. Cut yarn leaving a tail to thread thru darning needle and gather remaining stitches. 
14. Sew on eyes and face detail.
15. Sew seams and stuff to your desired fullness. 
16. Sew on hair.

Arms - 
1. CO 8 sts.
2-9. Stst 8 rows. 

*Change to hand color 
10. K across. 
11. P across. 
12. *K1, k2tog repeat from * across to last 2 sts, k2.  [6 sts] 
13. P 
14.  Cut yarn leaving a tail to thread thru darning needle and gather remaining stitches. 
15. Sew on arms.

Cupcake hat. 

CO 38 sts. 

1-4. K1, p1 (rib) for 4 rows.

*Change color 

5. K 

6. *PFB, K2, repeat from * across.  

7. K 

8. P 

9. *K2tog, YO, repeat from * across.  

10. P 

11. K 

12. Pick up stitch from first new color row and P2tog across.

13-16. Stst 4 rows. 

14. *K3, k2tog, repeat from * across. 

15. P 

16. k2, k2tog, repeat from * across. 

17. P 

18. k1, k2tog, repeat from * across. 

19. P 

20. K2tog across. 

21.  Cut yarn leaving a tail to thread thru darning needle and gather remaining stitches.

22. Sew seam.

23. Sew on pretty "sprinkles" using other colored yarns.  -I supposed tiny beads could be used as an option for the sprinkles.

My Sideways Pullover - Knitting Machine rendition

I liked the look of a hand knit pattern called Jujuba, it is a free pattern on the Berroco website.  http://www.berroco.com/patterns/jujuba

I wanted to make this on my knitting machine.  You need a long length machine to make this as there is over 200 needles at work at times.  I used my Brother KX350 (mid-gauge), I have 2 of them joined together.  I suppose the Ultimate Sweater Machines, LK-150's or any other machines, that folks have joined together, could also be used.  I write this out not as one of my patterns, simply to tell you how I made mine on the machine.  I am a 36" bust size, typically wear size medium, my height is 5'7".  This fit me perfectly.  Hope this helps someone else out that may want to make this pattern on their knitting machine.  

Tension set at 5.  

Yarn: 2/2 Cotton. (Sport weight?) see more yarn info at the bottom of this post.

Gauge: 19 sts x 26 rows = 4". 

This sweater is made in 2 sections.

Right Section

Sleeve: RC000. Cast on 53 sts, knit 6 rows. 

Inc Rows:  Inc at each end, knit 1 row.  [55 sts].  

Rep this inc every 6th row, 11 times more – [75 sts].  RC066.  Work even for 10  more rows, end with carriage on the right.  RC076.

Set RC000.   

Next Row: Cast on 74 sts at beginning of this row and at the beginning of next row. [223 total sts]          Knit 38 rows.  RC038.  
*a note on casting on that many stitches at the beginning of the row, I find that the latch tool cast on works best.

Divide for Neck: 

Set RC000.  Place left-most 112 sts in Hold position, leaving right-most 111 stitches in work.  Set carriage hold buttons.  

Back:  Knit 2 rows.

Dec Rows:  Using 3-prong tool and FF decrease, decrease 1 stitch at neck edge.  Rep this dec every other row 4 times more.  [106 sts.]  Work even until RC032.  Remove these 106 sts with waste yarn. 

Front:  RC000.  Put the right-most 112 stitches in work position, and take carriage off of hold.   Knit 3 rows.

Dec Rows: Using 3-prong tool and FF decrease, decrease 1 stitch at neck edge.  Rep this dec every other row 13 times more.  [98 sts.]  Work even until RC032.  Remove these 98 sts with waste yarn.  **IMPORTANT** Mark this as your Front section as it is confusing when you go to seam if you haven't marked it. 

Left Section:

Work same as right side only make sure to mirror it. 

Finishing

Sl 106 sts of each back section onto two 29” length circular needles.  Hold pieces together with WS together.  Perform a 3-needle bind off.  Join front sections in the same manner. 

Seam under arms and sides using any method you prefer.  I like using mattress stitch.

On the cherry sweater I picked up and knit 4 rows of ribbing on the sleeves, hem, and neck edge.  -but this is optional.  I liked the way it looked.  A single crochet edge would also look nice.   On the green sweater I did 4 rows of ribbing on the cuffs, 2" of ribbing on the hem, and no ribbing on the neckline.

----------

*A note on my yarn choice (cherry color), Conshocken Cotton Softball.  I loved the look when I first had it all made up. ....then I washed and dried it.  ugh.  The yarn lost a lot of color and dulled down quite a bit.  Not totally loving it.  I do love how the pattern made up though and will definitely make this again!

My second one, the green is made with 1 strand of Denys Brunton "Magicolor" yarn, and 1 strand of 2/24 acrylic, heather gray color.   This one washed up nicely and I dried it in the machine about 75% then laid out flat for the rest of the drying.  Pleased with the results.

Oatmeal hat

OATMEAL SLOUCHY BEANIE

I am suddenly obsessed with the camel stitch (a hdc that is performed in the 3rd loop).  This beanie is made with all hdc camel stitches.  You begin working the band on one side of the round, then you'll turn as you would at the end of a row worked flat, turn the beanie inside out, and work on the other side for the whole rest of the hat.  This will give you a ridge-y ribbing look to the band and a bumpy oatmeal texture to the body of the hat.  Super super simple once you understand the camel stitch of working in that 3rd loop.  

Materials:

Size "I" (5.5mm) hook

Yarn - worsted weight approx. 140-150 yds

References:

• How to perform the hdc camel stitch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2nyqJZBfvA

• Hdc decrease (please note that she demonstrates this as a regular hdc, not camel stitch version, you will need to do this decrease as a camel stitch in the 3rd loops.)  Also keep watching her video to the middle point as she says a preferred way that she does this - I use the same method and it is less bulky in appearance.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ngoj60GnNM

DIRECTIONS:

Ch64, join in the round with a slip st in the first chain.
1. Ch1 then hdc in same ch, hdc in each ch across, join by slst into top of first hdc.[64 hdc]

2. Ch1, then hdc in the back (third) loop to perform "camel stitch" (see video above under references if you don't know how to do this.) Proceed to hdc camel stitch in each hdc around.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.
3. Repeat round 2 until you have worked 1.75-2" (whatever width you like the look of).

4.  Ch1 then turn the work so that you are working on the other (inside) of the round - I actually just turn the hat inside out at this point.  Hdc (regular hdc, not camel stitch - for this row only) in same stitch as join then in the back loop of each st around, slip st into the top of the first hdc.

5. Work hdc camel stitches in each st on every round until pc measure 9" from beginning chain.
6. Ch1, then *work 6 hdc camel st, now work a hdc camel stitch decrease over the next 2 sts. (also worked in that back third loop as camel stitch), rep from * to end of round.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.
7. Ch1, then *work 5 hdc camel st, now work a hdc  camel stitch decrease over the next 2 sts. (also worked in that back third loop as camel stitch), rep from * to end of round.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.
8. Ch1, then *work 4 hdc camel st, now work a hdc  camel stitch decrease over the next 2 sts. (also worked in that back third loop as camel stitch), rep from * to end of round.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.
9. Ch1, then *work 3 hdc camel st, now work a hdc  camel stitch decrease over the next 2 sts. (also worked in that back third loop as camel stitch), rep from * to end of round.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.
10. Ch1, then *work 2 hdc camel st, now work a hdc  camel stitch decrease over the next 2 sts. (also worked in that back third loop as camel stitch), rep from * to end of round.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.

Please note, It will get a bit tight working in this small amount of stitches but can be done.

11. Ch1, then *work 1 hdc camel st, now work a hdc camel decrease over the next 2 sts. (also worked in that back third loop as camel stitch), rep from * to end of round.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.
12. Ch1, then *work a hdc camel stitch decrease over the next 2 sts. (also worked in that back third loop as camel stitch), rep from * to end of round.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.
13. Cut yarn leaving 8" tail and thread thru the last stitch to close it, then with a darning needle and yarn tail, weave the yarn tail thru each of the tops of the hdc's, cinch tight and tie off.   Cut yarn a bit shorter and weave in yarn tail.

Santa's Hearthside Slippers for Women

Ho ho ho!  I can finally use my arm - tendonitis has kept me from knitting the last month or so.  To try it out again I knit these Santa slippers just in time for Christmas.  Based somewhat on my Better Dorm Boots pattern they were quick to write up.  

These slippers are knit flat and seamed at the end.  There are yo's creating holes in which to thread your tie (santa's belt) through.  I made the tie by simply crocheting a chain.  If you don't crochet at all you could use icord, ribbon, or a fabric strip.   These knit up very quickly!  You still have time to make them, then wear them when you sneak down the tree in the middle of the night to deliver presents.  Lol!  You can make these non-holiday too of course by using other colors. 

Merry Christmas Everyone!

--------------------------

Materials:  

Worsted weight yarn (use 2 strands of worsted held tog.)

Sole: 92(100,114,120) yds

   

Slipper body: 92(110,124,130) yds

                       

U.S. Size 9 needles (5.5mm)
U.S. Size H crochet hook (for chaining the tie)
2 stitch markers

Wms Sizes: Sm (6-7.5), M(8-9), L(9.5-10.5), XL (11-12)

Gauge: 14 sts = 4” in Stockinette (w yarn held double)

Abbreviations:

• k = knit
• p = purl
• yo = yarn over
• sl-1 = slip one
• PSSO = pass slipped stitch over
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit (see how to perform one of these descreases if you don't know, google it)
• WS = wrong side
• RS = right side
• PM = place marker

Directions 

Starting with Sole:

Using sole color, Cast on 47(50,52,55) sts using a long-tail method and with 2 strands held together.

Row 1: Knit.

Row 2: K1, yo, k22(23,24,25) yo, k1(2,2,3), yo, k22(23,24,25) yo, k1.   [51(54,56,59) 
 sts]
 

Row 3 and all odd rows: Knit.  *knit the yo’s through the back of the loop. 

Row 4: K2, yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k3(4,4,5), yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k2.  [55(58,60,63)sts]


Row 6: K3, yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k5(6,6,7), yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k3.  [59(62,64,67)sts]

Row 8: K4, yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k7(8,8,9), yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k4. [63(66,68,71) sts]


Row 10: K5, yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k9(10,10,11), yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k5.  [67(70,72,75)sts]
 

Row 12: Size Sm ONLY: k6, yo, k27, kfb, k27, yo, k6. [70sts]

Row 12: Sizes M and L ONLY: K6, yo, k(23,24), yo, k6, yo, k6, yo, (k23,24), yo, k6. [75,77 sts]
Row 12: Size XL ONLY: K6, yo, k32, yo, k31, yo, k6.  [78 sts]

Row 13: Size Sm and M ONLY proceed to #1 of foot.              
Row 13: Sizes L and XL ONLY: Knit  (knit the yo's through the back of the loop)
Row 14: Size L ONLY: Proceed to #1 of foot.
Row 14: Size XL ONLY: Knit

  ------------------------

FOOT 

Change color now if making foot different color than sole.

Row 1: Size Sm ONLY:  (RS)  Knit. (knit the yo's through the back of the loop)

Row 1: Size M ONLY: (RS) Knit (knit the yo’s through the back of the loop)

Row 1: Sizes L and XL ONLY: (RS) Knit.


Row 2: (WS) P31(33,34,34), PM, p8(9,9,10), PM, p31(33,34,34).


Row 3: K24(26,27,27), ssk 2x, k3tog, k8(9,9,10), sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k24(26,27,27). [62(67,69,70)sts) 

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: K20(22,23,23), ssk 2x, k3tog, k8(9,9,10), sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k20(22,23,23). 54(59,61,62)sts]

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: K31(34,35,36), ssk,
 turn.    [53(58,60,61) sts]

Row 8: Sl-1, p8(9,9,10), p2tog,
 turn.   [52(57,59,60) sts]

Row 9: Sl-1, k8(9,9,10), ssk, turn.
  [51(56,58,59) sts] 

Row 10: Sl-1, p8(9,9,10), p2tog, turn.  [50(55,57,58) sts]


Row 11: (RS) Sl-1, k8(9,9,10), ssk, DON’T TURN, k19(21,22,22).   [49(54,56,57)sts]

Row 12: Size Sm ONLY: p1, p2tog, p2tog, p23, p2tog, p14, p2tog, p2tog, p1.  [44(-,-) sts]

Row 12: Sizes M, L, XL ONLY: p1, p2tog, p2tog, p-(26,27,28), p2tog, p-(16,17,17) p2tog, p2tog, p1.  [-(49,51,52) sts]

  

    Row 12A: Sizes L and XL ONLY: Knit.

    Row 12B: Sizes L and XL ONLY: Purl.

  

Row 13: Size Sm ONLY: Removing markers as you come to them, k2, *[yo, k2tog] rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 13: Sizes M ONLY: Removing markers as you come to them, k2, *[yo, k2tog] rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 13: Sizes L ONLY: Removing markers as you come to them, k2, *[yo, k2tog] rep from * to last  st, k1.
Row 13: Size XL ONLY: Removing markers as you come to them, k2, *[yo, k2tog] rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 14: Purl. *if changing color for the rolled edge, change color now.

Row 15: K16(19,20,20), k2tog, k2, k2tog 2x, k2(2,2,2), k2tog, k16(19,20,20).    [40(45,47,48) sts]

Row 16:  Purl.
Row 17: Knit.

Row 18: Purl.
Row 19: Bind off knit-wise.

-------------------------------

TIE 

Using your crochet hook and a single strand of whatever color you choose to be your tie, chain 100(105, 110,114).   Starting at front center, weave the tie in and out of holes made by the row of yo's.  Try the slipper on and tie to a tightness you like.  I tied mine once and never untied it again. 
( I don't re-tie it every time I put the slipper on.)
If you don't crochet at all you can use icord, ribbon, shoelace, strip of fabric, etc. 

Sew seam using single strand of matching color(s).  I turn the slipper inside out and seam using a simple whipstitch.  Take care to make your stitches small and close together for best results. 

Weave in any loose ends. 

Wear and enjoy!

P.S. I lightly spray the bottoms of my slippers with the spray version of "Plasti-Dip" for a non-skip sole.  

Better Dorm Boots for MEN! - Free Knitting pattern

Better Dorm Boots ©2016 Kris Basta

A very special thank you to fellow knitter Anne Goodwin for helping test this pattern.  Due to tennis elbow I haven't been able to knit for a while.  I had the pattern mostly written out but it's hard to make sure all is right without test knitting each size.  Anne did just that, corrected numbers for me and tested the fit on most as well.  

Materials:

U.S. Size 9 (5.5mm) needles
Worsted weight yarn (use 2 strands of worsted held tog.)
     Sole: 114(120, 130,140) yds 
     Slipper body: 124(136, 142, 158) yds
2 Stitch markers

Mens Sizes: 

Sm (8-9), M (9.5-10.5), Lg (11-12), XL (13)
For womens sizes see here: 
http://auntekristy.blogspot.com/2016/09/better-dorm-boots-free-knitting-pattern.html

Gauge: 14 sts = 4” in Stockinette (w strands held double)

Abbreviations:

k = knit
p = purl
yo = yarn over 
sl-1 = slip one
PSSO = pass slipped stitch over
p2tog = purl 2 together
k2tog = knit 2 together
ssk = slip, slip, knit (see how to perform one of these descreases if you don't know, google it) 
WS = wrong side
RS = right side
PM = place marker
Rep = repeat

DIRECTIONS:

Starting with Sole:

Using sole color, Cast on 52(55, 57, 59) sts using a long-tail method and with 2 strands held together.
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: K1, yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k2(3,3,3), yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k1.  [56(59,61,63) sts]

Row 3 and all odd rows: Knit. *knit the yo’s through the back of the loop.

Row 4: K2, yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k4(5,5,5), yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k2. [60(63,65,67)sts]


Row 6: K3, yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k6(7,7,7), yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k3. [64(67,69,71)sts]

Row 8: K4, yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k8(9,9,9), yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k4. [68(71,73,75) sts]
 

Row 10: K5, yo, K24(25,26,27), yo, k10(11,11,11), yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k5. [72(75,77,79)sts]
 

Row 12: Size Sm ONLY: K6, yo, k(24), yo, k6, yo, k6, yo, (k24), yo, k6. [77 sts]
Row 12: Size M ONLY: K6, yo, k32, yo, k31, yo, k6.  [78 sts]
Row 12: Size L ONLY: K6, yo, k to last 6 sts, yo, k6.  [79 sts]
Row 12: Size XL ONLY: K39, yo, k40.  [80 sts]
Row 13: Knit (knit any yo's through the back of the loop) 

FOOT

Change color now if making foot different color than sole.

Row 1: Knit
Row 2: (WS) P34(34,34,34,), PM, p9(10,11,12), PM, p34(34,34,34,).

Row 3: K27(27,27,27), ssk 2x, k3tog, k9(10,11,12), sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k27(27,27,27). [69(70,71,72) sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: K23(23,23,23), ssk 2x, k3tog, k9(10,11,12), sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k23(23,23,23). [61(62,63,64)sts]
Row 6: Purl

Row 7: K35(36,37,38), ssk,
 turn. [60(61,62,63) sts] 
Row 8: Sl-1, p9(10,11,12), p2tog,
 turn. [59(60,61,62) sts] 
Row 9: Sl-1, k9(10,11,12), ssk, turn.
 [58(59,60,61) sts] 
Row 10: Sl-1, p9(10,11,12), p2tog, turn. [57(58,59,60) sts] 

Rows 11-26: Repeat rows 9 and 10. [41(42,43,44) sts] 

Row 27: (RS) Sl-1, k9(10,11,12), ssk, DON’T TURN, k14(14,14,14).  [40(41,42,43) sts] 

Row 28: P24(25,26,27), p2tog, p14(14,14,14). [39(40,41,42) sts] 

Row 29: Size S/M ONLY: (Removing markers as you come to them) Knit.  Now proceed to row 32.
Row 29: Size L/XL ONLY: (Removing markers as you come to them) Knit. 
Row 30: Size L/XL ONLY: Purl
Row 31: Size L/XL ONLY: Knit

Row 32: P1, p2tog, p2tog, p across to last 5 sts, p2tog, p2tog, p1. 
[35(36,37,38) sts]

Row 33: Knit
Row 34: Purl 

Rows 35-36: Rep rows 33 and 34 once more.
----------------------------------------------------------

RIBBED CUFF

Row 37: Sizes S/L ONLY: [k1,p1] 8(-,8,-)x more, k2tog, p1, [k1,p1] to end.  [34(-,36,-) sts]
Row 37: Size M/XL ONLY: [k1, p1] to end.
Rows 38-45: Work 8 rows of 1x1 rib.

Bind off loosely.

Sew seam using single strand of matching color(s). I turn the slipper inside out and seam using a simple whipstitch. Take care to make your stitches small and close together for best results.

Weave in any loose ends.


Wear and enjoy!

P.S. I spray the bottoms with the spray version on Plasti-dip to make my soles non-skid. 

Easy Cake Cowl - Free Knitting Pattern!

As I sit here at our farmhouse in Montana, in the middle of nowhere, with nothing to do while my husband putz's around on the 4-wheeler I thought I'd knit a cowl.
I really like the Caron Cakes that are at Michaels - seems they've been all the rage!  I wanted to make something with one complete cake.  I bought my Caron cakes (36 of them!) at Michaels when they were on sale for $4.59 back in September.

This cowl is knit flat and joined at the end.  You can either knit it flat and sew a seam at the end or another option is to do a provisional cast on and secure the seam at the end with a 3-needle bind off. 

The Stringy fringe is made simply at the end with dropped stitches - no need to cut fringe and tie on.

Materials and Tools: 

• U.S. Size 9 (5.5mm) knitting needles

• OPTIONAL for those using the provisional cast on.  An extra knitting needle to be used for the 3-needle bind off.  (size doesn't matter too much, anything between a 6 - 8)

• 1 Caron Cakes (or similar like Premier "Sweet Roll") or just Worsted/Aran weight, approx. 383 yds. 
• OPTIONAL: A little waste yarn in a contrast color for provisional cast on. 

Gauge: 

20 sts in stockinette stitch = 4"

Abbreviations:
K = knit
P = purl
yo = yarn over
k2tog = knit 2 together
RS = right side
 

References:

Provisional cast-ons: (here are a few different methods)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T7OwOpC6CY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-irRySJHCKE


3-needle bind off:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpJUrCX52DU

Directions:

**Choose now whether you’d like to make this by starting with a provisional cast-on, which means you will join at the end with a 3-needle bind off,  OR you can just choose a regular cast-on method of your choice, then bind off at the end and sew your seam. 

 

Set up:

For Provisional Cast-on (this means you will use a 3-needle bind off at the end) Using waste yarn perform a provisional cast on of your choice, cast on 42 sts.

For Regular Cast on (this means you will sew your seam at the end.)  Using main yarn, cast on 42 sts using any regular cast on method you prefer.  I myself prefer the long-tail cast on. 

1-2 Knit
3.  (RS) k2,  *yo, k2tog, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
4-7. Knit
8-15. Starting with a purl row, work 8 rows of Stockinette St.  End on RS.

16-18. Knit
19. (RS) k2,  *yo, k2tog, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
20-23. Knit
24-31. Starting with a purl row, work 8 rows of Stockinette St.  End on RS.

Repeat rows 16-31 until you've used up all but a couple rows worth of yarn or very close to the end of the cake.  Make sure to end on row 31.

Seaming:  

For those who used a Provisional Cast-on:
Using spare knitting needle, pick up the 42 stitches from the cast on, set aside.

Now, on the end that was the last row you worked, k2 sts, then k1, then place the last st worked back on the left hand needle, drop the other 2 sts off the needle (yep, let 'em drop off the needle, this will become your fringe later) then place that st that you worked (the 4th one) back on the right needle.  On the spare needle, the one with the sts you picked up from the provisional cast on, hold it parallel to the other working needle, right sides together, drop the first 2 sts off the needle.  Now knit a stitch from the provisional cast on side, now you have 2 sts on your right hand needle, pass st 1 over st 2.
Now perform a 3-needle bind off, when you get to the last 2 stitches (on both needles), stop, and let them drop off (again, this will become fringe).  Tie off on the last st worked and weave in end.

For those who used a regular Cast-on:

K3,  k the next st, pass the 3rd st on right needle over the 4th one as to bind off, place the new stitch you just made when you bound it off onto the left hand needle temporarily, drop those 2 edge sts off of the right hand needle, now place the st that you set onto the left needle back onto the right needle, continue to bind off until 2 sts remain on each needle, drop these last 2 sts on each needle (these will become fringe also).  Cut yarn, tie off and weave in.  Sew your bind off edge to the cast on edge (except those 2 edge stitches on each side which are dropped - don't sew those, they need to stay loose and dropped to pull the fringe.

To make the fringe, start gently tugging at an end where 2 sts were dropped, until a loop works its way out, when one loop comes out tug the next one.  I am going to refer you to a video that I made for a different pattern but the fringe pulling is the same.  Please ignore the fact that this is a different pattern and different look, just look at the way I pull the fringe out.  The video is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtUHcyS-0Jc

My cowl was approximately 64" long before seaming.  After seaming I washed it in the washing machine and dried it in the dryer, I did not block it.   I actually prefer the "wrong" side better than the right side.  I wear mine doubled around my neck.

Better Dorm Boots Deluxe - Free Knitting Pattern!

Are you sick of me yet?  I keep playing around with my Better Dorm Boot pattern to see what all I can do with it.  I decided to make a pair with a large fold-down cuff.  A pretty lace design seemed to suit the fold-down cuff, so here it is. 

To download, view, or print this pattern, scroll down past the pattern directions and click on the link.

Materials:  

Worsted weight yarn (use 2 strands of worsted held tog.)  360(380,410) yds

U.S. Size 9 (5.5mm) Needles

U.S. Size 10 (6mm) Needles  (*only the size M/L & XL will need both the size 9 & 10 needles,  The size Sm will only use the size 9 needles.)

Wms Sizes: Sm (6-7.5), M/L (8-9), XL (9.5-10.5)

Gauge: 14 sts = 4” in Stockinette using the size 9 needles.

 








Abbreviations:

• k = knit
• p = purl
• yo = yarn over
• sl-1 = slip one
• PSSO = pass slipped stitch over
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit (see how to perform one of these descreases if you don't know, google it)
• WS = wrong side
• RS = right side
• PM = place marker
• SM = slip marker