Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Free Knitting Pattern! Old Flames Scarf

 The flickering flames stitch pattern is nothing new, it's been used for many knit patterns.  I have incorporated it into this bottom-up triangular scarf.  You will start your scarf at the bottom center and work your way upwards while increasing every 3rd and 4th row.   This is not a difficult pattern at all, I rate it as intermediate simply because you do need to pay attention and check your stitch count.  It is always advisable to read thru the pattern before starting.  The pattern is available at the end (after the pics) to download or print.  Have fun!



 220-230 yds of Worsted or Aran weight yarn, preferably something drapey.  Suggestions are blends that include cotton, rayon, silk, bamboo, etc.


One size U.S. #10 circular needle.
*Circular needle is to accommodate the large number of stitches, you will be knitting the scarf flat, not in the round.


Since this is a scarf, gauge isn't terribly important but there are two examples of ones I've made.  
Red Scarf - 12 sts/15 rows in Stst = 4".  This was w/ worsted weight yarn, using #10 needle.  this scarf is 77" L x 11" W.
Multi color scarf - 16 sts/20 rows in Stst = 4".  This was w/ Aran weight yarn using #10 needle.  This scarf is __L x __W. * I ran out of yarn, will post measures when I get another ball of yarn! 


Please note that this scarf pattern begins at the bottom center of the scarf, you will be increasing every 3rd and 4th row.  Please use the cast-on at the beginning of the row method as shown in the video reference below.  If you try to make this and do your increases by casting on at the END of the row with a backward loop, it will not look nice, you will have an ugly looking edge.
Also, please note that some of the ssk’s in the beginning rows of the scarf seem a little bit awkward because you are making them in the sts that you have just cast on, don’t worry, this is ok.  This is not a hard pattern, it is one that just requires you to make sure your stitch count is correct.  I have noted the stitch counts at the end of the cast on rows.  


1. Cast on at beginning of the row, otherwise known as knitted cast-on. Tutorial video here:  
2. ssk (slip, slip, knit), here is a tutorial showing how to do this:


St = Stitch                    yo = yarn over
beg = beginning           K = Knit                      
BO = Bind off               CO = Cast on
K2tog = Knit 2 together
ssk = slip, slip, knit 


Using Long tail cast on, Cast on 15 sts.

Row 1: (WS) k2, purl across to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2: k5, *ssk, k5, yo, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 3: CO 7 sts at beg of row, k2, purl across to last 2 sts, k2.  (22, 106, 190 sts)
Row 4: CO 7 sts at beg of row, K5, *ssk, k4, yo, k1, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. (29, 113, 197 sts)

Row 5: k2, purl across to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 6: K5, *ssk, k3, yo, k2, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 7: CO 7 sts at of beg of row, k2, purl across to last 2 sts, k2.  (36, 120, 204 sts)
Row 8: CO 7 sts at of beg of row, k5, *ssk, k2, yo, k3, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. (43, 127, 211 sts)

Row 9: k2, purl across to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 10: k5, *ssk, k1, yo, k4, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 11: CO 7 sts at beg of row, k2, purl across to last 2 sts, K2.  (50, 134, sts)
Row 12: CO 7 sts at beg of row, k5, *ssk, yo, k5, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.  
(57, 141 sts)

Row 13: k2, purl across to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 14: k3, *yo, k5, k2tog, rep from * to last 5 sts, k5.

Row 15: CO7 sts at beg of row, k2, purl across to last 2 sts, K2.  (64, 148 sts)
Row 16: CO7 sts at beg of row, k4,*yo, k4, k2tog, k1, rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.  (71, 155 sts)

Row 17: k2, purl across to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 18: k5, *yo, k3, k2tog, k2, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 19: CO7 sts at beg of row, k2, purl across to last 2 sts, K2.  (78, 162 sts)
Row 20: CO7 sts at beg of row, k6,*yo, k2, k2tog, k3, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. (85, 169 sts)

Row 21: k2, purl across to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 22: k7,*yo, k1, k2tog, k4, rep from * across to last st, k1.

Row 23: CO7 sts at beg of row, k2, purl across to last 2 sts, K2.  (92, 176 sts)
Row 24: CO7 sts at beg of row, k8,*yo, k2tog, k5, rep from * across.  (99, 183 sts)

25-48: Repeat Rows 1-24 once more. (183 sts)
49-56: Repeat Rows 1-8.  (211 sts)
57-59: Knit each row, do not cast any sts on at beg of row.
60: Bind off (knitwise) loosely.


To download or print click on the link below.


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Two Cables and a Frapp said...

Very nice. I love it !

SC in NC said...

I've made several of your other scarf patterns, and I can't wait to try this one!

joanna said...

I too have made your other scarf patterns and I really enjoy all of them..I knit many scarves for a cancer fundraiser that my dear friend organizes and will do this and more of the rest for next November's sale :)
I will keep on following for all your ideas. :)
Thanks so much Kris for providing me with a renewed enthusiasm for the sale. :)

Idaho Quilter said...

Love the pattern I am almost done with the first one and I cant wait to start the second one.

Unknown said...

what are the extra numbers atthe end of the increase row . love this pattern and cant wait to get started.

jan said...

Help what is worsted yarn? looks like 4ply or is it double knit. Ive never seen a pattern that states yards, usually balls of 50g or 100g? Jan

kriskrafter said...

Jody Lebeda, the bolded numbers in parentheses are the stitch counts as you work one full pattern repeat. This will help keep you on track.

kriskrafter said...

Jan - Designations such as "worsted weight" and "sportweight" are references to the thickness of the strand of yarn, not weight in terms of ounces.

Worsted weight is an average, medium thickness yarn. Sport or baby weight is a little lighter. Bulky weight is a little heavier than worsted but not as heavy as super bulky, which is the thickest category of yarn. Yarn thicknesses are rated on most labels with a number, 1 (thinnest) to 5 or 6 (bulky, super bulky).
So for this pattern you need Worsted weight yarn (typically you will see a number "4" on the label. Then you check the yardage to see if you need to buy one skein or two to get enough yardage for the pattern.

chenoa said...

The extra numbers at the end are how many stitches you will have for that row.

Anonymous said...

Hello. Your patterns are BEAUTIFUL. May I ask why you refer to them as scarves? It seems to me many of them easily could be called shawls or shawlettes. This is in no way a criticism. You are TREMENDOUSLY talented!!
Just curious as here in the north Texas area, these are usually presented as shawls at our yarn stores. :)
Please don't take offense, none is intended!
Thank you for the patterns, inspiration and beautiful items you've shared so generously.

Unknown said...

I love your designs. I am going to start the diagonal shaw or scarf today out of white cotton for me. Can`t wait to get started. Keep those beauties coming. Pat

Ahart said...

This is just the pattern I've been looking for to make as a christmas gift. Thank you for posting. I consider myself an advanced beginner and yet I must be reading the pattern incorrectly. After casting on 15sts, i followed as directed: k2, p11, k2 = 15sts. Then row2, if I k5, *ssk, k5 & yo* I am left with 3 stitches. How can I repeat from star (ssk, k5 & yo) if there are only 3 sets left? What did I do wrong?

kriskrafter said...

Dear Ahart -
Hmmm, not sure how you are coming to 3 sts????
If you follow row 2 (I will break it down):
K5 (this means to knit the next 5 stitches.
Then you ssk (this means you slip 2 sts onto your right needle, then with your left needle insert it into the right 2 stitches and knit it, thus decreasing one stitch)
Then you K5 (knit the next 5 stitches)
Then you yo (yarn over creates one new stitch, so even tho you decreased one earlier in the row, you've just added one back.)
You repeat from the * to the last 3 stitches, which are knit.
so to total it up, you have 5+1+5+1+3 = 15 sts.

kriskrafter said...

forgot to say that although it says to repeat from * to last 3 sts, you ONLY have 3 sts in this particular row, so you just knit them and know that for this particular row there is no repeat.

Anonymous said...

I have nearly finished this scarf. Problem: outer edge wants to curl. The stitches are not tight. What to do? Thanks.

kriskrafter said...

Dear annonymous,
This is a common issue with many knitting projects. Most times once blocked it will settle down and curling issue will be greatly reduced or go away.

Anonymous said...

I love this pattern. However I followed the pattern and my scarf doesn't look as long as the one in the photo. I've already casted off, can I still make it longer?

kriskrafter said...

Without seeing it I would guess that your gauge was not the same as the pattern called for so it wouldn't have come out the same size. Did you do a swatch? Absolutely you can lengthen it, you can just take out the bind off stitches rip out the last 3 rows (the garter rows), this will take you back to the last pattern row you worked which would have been row 8 of the pattern rows. Now work rows 9-24, then the 3 garter rows then bind off again. This will make it longer (but it will also make it wider). If this is not want you want to do, try blocking it pretty hard to see if you can get it to stretch a bit.

Ahart said...

I finally finished the flames scarf! I had to frog a couple of times; you were right, one must count consistently! Otherwise it was pretty easy. I tend to be a pretty tight knitter and I wanted it a little longer/wider. Rather than pulling out the whole thing again, I repeated rows 25-48 one more time, then 1-8 before continuing to the garter stitch and binding off. If I make this with a worsted weight again, I think I'll use a larger needle. It is lovely. Thank you for your great pattern.

Q: I have some lace weight yarn in my stash (100g/220 yards, #3-4 needles) that I would like to use to make another flame scarf. How would I adjust this pattern to lace weight, 100% alpaca yarn?

kriskrafter said...

Dear Ahart,
I am sorry I don't have an answer for you, without knitting it myself with lace weight yarn I just can't take a guess. I would just start it and see how big it gets to be and you will for sure have to do many more repeats to get it to the length you want. I think I would also start out with twice the amount of stitches.

Marie said...

I made this for my niece because her mom told me she likes to wear scarves year round. I liked it so much I made a second one for myself and dyed it a lovely dusky lavender. I'm so in love with this pattern and it was exactly the all season shape I was looking for.

Thank you so much!

Anonymous said...

Hi Kris,
I just started this pattern which is beautiful. I have done and redone row 16 which is supposed to be 71 stitches for the first round, but no matter what, if I follow the pattern, there is always one stitch left. Should the end be read k5 instead of k4 to make the stitch count correct? Thanks.

kriskrafter said...

Dear Annonymous,
The pattern is correct, that row should end with k4. It is hard for me to say without seeing what you're doing. Could be a couple of things: Are you remembering your yarn over each time? Do you perform a yarn over correctly? did you have the correct stitch count on the last row?

Judy said...

I love your scarf and can't wait to begin, but I don't know how to CO sets at the beginning of a row, just at the end of a row. Is it the same thing, or is there a special way to CO at the beginning of a row?

kriskrafter said...

Perhaps you missed it - look at the "References/Tutorials" this gives you a link to learn how to cast on at the beginning of the row.

Unknown said...

I love your patterns. There easy to follow for my students. I hope my home on Sunday afternoons for free knit and crochet help and use your patterns. Your helpful utube videos are much welcomed. Thanks for all your creations.