Sunday, November 27, 2016

Better Dorm Boots for MEN! - Free Knitting pattern


Better Dorm Boots ©2016 Kris Basta

A very special thank you to fellow knitter Anne Goodwin for helping test this pattern.  Due to tennis elbow I haven't been able to knit for a while.  I had the pattern mostly written out but it's hard to make sure all is right without test knitting each size.  Anne did just that, corrected numbers for me and tested the fit on most as well.  






Materials:


U.S. Size 9 (5.5mm) needles
Worsted weight yarn (use 2 strands of worsted held tog.)
     Sole: 114(120, 130,140) yds 
     Slipper body: 124(136, 142, 158) yds
2 Stitch markers



Mens Sizes: 


Sm (8-9), M (9.5-10.5), Lg (11-12), XL (13)
For womens sizes see here
http://auntekristy.blogspot.com/2016/09/better-dorm-boots-free-knitting-pattern.html


Gauge: 14 sts = 4” in Stockinette (w strands held double)




Abbreviations:


k = knit
p = purl
yo = yarn over 

sl-1 = slip one
PSSO = pass slipped stitch over
p2tog = purl 2 together
k2tog = knit 2 together
ssk = slip, slip, knit (see how to perform one of these descreases if you don't know, google it) 

WS = wrong side
RS = right side
PM = place marker

Rep = repeat



DIRECTIONS:



Starting with Sole:

Using sole color, Cast on 52(55, 57, 59) sts using a long-tail method and with 2 strands held together.
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: K1, yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k2(3,3,3), yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k1.  [56(59,61,63) sts]
Row 3 and all odd rows: Knit. *knit the yo’s through the back of the loop.

Row 4: K2, yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k4(5,5,5), yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k2. [60(63,65,67)sts]

Row 6: K3, yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k6(7,7,7), yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k3. [64(67,69,71)sts]

Row 8: K4, yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k8(9,9,9), yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k4. [68(71,73,75) sts]
 
Row 10: K5, yo, K24(25,26,27), yo, k10(11,11,11), yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k5. [72(75,77,79)sts]
 

Row 12: Size Sm ONLY: K6, yo, k(24), yo, k6, yo, k6, yo, (k24), yo, k6. [77 sts]

Row 12: Size M ONLY: K6, yo, k32, yo, k31, yo, k6.  [78 sts]
Row 12: Size L ONLY: K6, yo, k to last 6 sts, yo, k6.  [79 sts]
Row 12: Size XL ONLY: K39, yo, k40.  [80 sts]
Row 13: Knit (knit any yo's through the back of the loop) 

FOOT

Change color now if making foot different color than sole.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: (WS) P34(34,34,34,), PM, p9(10,11,12), PM, p34(34,34,34,).
Row 3: K27(27,27,27), ssk 2x, k3tog, k9(10,11,12), sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k27(27,27,27). [69(70,71,72) sts)
Row 4: Purl

Row 5: K23(23,23,23), ssk 2x, k3tog, k9(10,11,12), sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k23(23,23,23). [61(62,63,64)sts]
Row 6: Purl

Row 7: K35(36,37,38), ssk,turn. [60(61,62,63) sts] 
Row 8: Sl-1, p9(10,11,12), p2tog,turn. [59(60,61,62) sts] 
Row 9: Sl-1, k9(10,11,12), ssk, turn.[58(59,60,61) sts] 
Row 10: Sl-1, p9(10,11,12), p2tog, turn. [57(58,59,60) sts] 

Rows 11-26: Repeat rows 9 and 10. [41(42,43,44) sts] 
Row 27: (RS) Sl-1, k9(10,11,12), ssk, DON’T TURN, k14(14,14,14).  [40(41,42,43) sts] 
Row 28: P24(25,26,27), p2tog, p14(14,14,14). [39(40,41,42) sts] 
Row 29: Size S/M ONLY: (Removing markers as you come to them) Knit.  Now proceed to row 32.
Row 29: Size L/XL ONLY: (Removing markers as you come to them) Knit. 
Row 30: Size L/XL ONLY: Purl
Row 31: Size L/XL ONLY: Knit
Row 32: P1, p2tog, p2tog, p across to last 5 sts, p2tog, p2tog, p1. 
[35(36,37,38) sts]

Row 33: Knit

Row 34: Purl 

Rows 35-36: Rep rows 33 and 34 once more.

----------------------------------------------------------

RIBBED CUFF


Row 37: Sizes S/L ONLY: [k1,p1] 8(-,8,-)x more, k2tog, p1, [k1,p1] to end.  [34(-,36,-) sts]

Row 37: Size M/XL ONLY: [k1, p1] to end.
Rows 38-45: Work 8 rows of 1x1 rib.

Bind off loosely.

Sew seam using single strand of matching color(s). I turn the slipper inside out and seam using a simple whipstitch. Take care to make your stitches small and close together for best results.


Weave in any loose ends.


Wear and enjoy!
P.S. I spray the bottoms with the spray version on Plasti-dip to make my soles non-skid. 

Sunday, October 23, 2016

Easy Cake Cowl - Free Knitting Pattern!





As I sit here at our farmhouse in Montana, in the middle of nowhere, with nothing to do while my husband putz's around on the 4-wheeler I thought I'd knit a cowl.
I really like the Caron Cakes that are at Michaels - seems they've been all the rage!  I wanted to make something with one complete cake.  I bought my Caron cakes (36 of them!) at Michaels when they were on sale for $4.59 back in September.

This cowl is knit flat and joined at the end.  You can either knit it flat and sew a seam at the end or another option is to do a provisional cast on and secure the seam at the end with a 3-needle bind off. 

The Stringy fringe is made simply at the end with dropped stitches - no need to cut fringe and tie on.



Materials and Tools: 

  • U.S. Size 9 (5.5mm) knitting needles
  • OPTIONAL for those using the provisional cast on.  An extra knitting needle to be used for the 3-needle bind off.  (size doesn't matter too much, anything between a 6 - 8)
  • 1 Caron Cakes (or similar like Premier "Sweet Roll") or just Worsted/Aran weight, approx. 383 yds. 
  • OPTIONAL: A little waste yarn in a contrast color for provisional cast on. 


Gauge: 

20 sts in stockinette stitch = 4"

Abbreviations:

K = knit
P = purl
yo = yarn over
k2tog = knit 2 together
RS = right side
 

References:

Provisional cast-ons: (here are a few different methods)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T7OwOpC6CY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-irRySJHCKE


3-needle bind off:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpJUrCX52DU


Directions:

**Choose now whether you’d like to make this by starting with a provisional cast-on, which means you will join at the end with a 3-needle bind off,  OR you can just choose a regular cast-on method of your choice, then bind off at the end and sew your seam. 
 


Set up:

For Provisional Cast-on (this means you will use a 3-needle bind off at the end) Using waste yarn perform a provisional cast on of your choice, cast on 42 sts.

For Regular Cast on (this means you will sew your seam at the end.)  Using main yarn, cast on 42 sts using any regular cast on method you prefer.  I myself prefer the long-tail cast on. 

1-2 Knit
3.  (RS) k2,  *yo, k2tog, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
4-7. Knit
8-15. Starting with a purl row, work 8 rows of Stockinette St.  End on RS.

16-18. Knit
19. (RS) k2,  *yo, k2tog, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
20-23. Knit
24-31. Starting with a purl row, work 8 rows of Stockinette St.  End on RS.

Repeat rows 16-31 until you've used up all but a couple rows worth of yarn or very close to the end of the cake.  Make sure to end on row 31.

Seaming:  

For those who used a Provisional Cast-on:
Using spare knitting needle, pick up the 42 stitches from the cast on, set aside.

Now, on the end that was the last row you worked, k2 sts, then k1, then place the last st worked back on the left hand needle, drop the other 2 sts off the needle (yep, let 'em drop off the needle, this will become your fringe later) then place that st that you worked (the 4th one) back on the right needle.  On the spare needle, the one with the sts you picked up from the provisional cast on, hold it parallel to the other working needle, right sides together, drop the first 2 sts off the needle.  Now knit a stitch from the provisional cast on side, now you have 2 sts on your right hand needle, pass st 1 over st 2.
Now perform a 3-needle bind off, when you get to the last 2 stitches (on both needles), stop, and let them drop off (again, this will become fringe).  Tie off on the last st worked and weave in end.

For those who used a regular Cast-on:

K3,  k the next st, pass the 3rd st on right needle over the 4th one as to bind off, place the new stitch you just made when you bound it off onto the left hand needle temporarily, drop those 2 edge sts off of the right hand needle, now place the st that you set onto the left needle back onto the right needle, continue to bind off until 2 sts remain on each needle, drop these last 2 sts on each needle (these will become fringe also).  Cut yarn, tie off and weave in.  Sew your bind off edge to the cast on edge (except those 2 edge stitches on each side which are dropped - don't sew those, they need to stay loose and dropped to pull the fringe.

To make the fringe, start gently tugging at an end where 2 sts were dropped, until a loop works its way out, when one loop comes out tug the next one.  I am going to refer you to a video that I made for a different pattern but the fringe pulling is the same.  Please ignore the fact that this is a different pattern and different look, just look at the way I pull the fringe out.  The video is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtUHcyS-0Jc

My cowl was approximately 64" long before seaming.  After seaming I washed it in the washing machine and dried it in the dryer, I did not block it.   I actually prefer the "wrong" side better than the right side.  I wear mine doubled around my neck.


Saturday, September 24, 2016

Better Dorm Boots Deluxe - Free Knitting Pattern!



Are you sick of me yet?  I keep playing around with my Better Dorm Boot pattern to see what all I can do with it.  I decided to make a pair with a large fold-down cuff.  A pretty lace design seemed to suit the fold-down cuff, so here it is. 

To download, view, or print this pattern, scroll down past the pattern directions and click on the link.


Materials:  
Worsted weight yarn (use 2 strands of worsted held tog.)  360(380,410) yds

U.S. Size 9 (5.5mm) Needles
U.S. Size 10 (6mm) Needles  (*only the size M/L & XL will need both the size 9 & 10 needles,  The size Sm will only use the size 9 needles.)

Wms Sizes: Sm (6-7.5), M/L (8-9), XL (9.5-10.5)


Gauge: 14 sts = 4” in Stockinette using the size 9 needles.


 








Abbreviations:
  • k = knit
  • p = purl
  • yo = yarn over
  • sl-1 = slip one
  • PSSO = pass slipped stitch over
  • p2tog = purl 2 together
  • k2tog = knit 2 together
  • ssk = slip, slip, knit (see how to perform one of these descreases if you don't know, google it)
  • WS = wrong side
  • RS = right side
  • PM = place marker
  • SM = slip marker

Sunday, September 18, 2016

Better Dorm Boots - Lace Edition - Free Knitting Pattern!



I wondered what the "Better dorm boots" would look like with a little bit of lace running up the center.... I really like them!  Hope you do too.  
To download, view, or print this pattern, scroll down past the last photos and click on the link.

Materials:  
Worsted weight yarn (use 2 strands of worsted held tog.)
Sole:  92(100, 114) yds
Slipper body: 92(110, 124) yds

U.S. Size 9 (5.5mm) Needles

Wms Sizes: Sm (6-7.5), M/L (8-9), XL (9.5-10.5)


Gauge: 14 sts = 4” in Stockinette 


Abbreviations:
  • k = knit
  • p = purl
  • yo = yarn over
  • sl-1 = slip one
  • PSSO = pass slipped stitch over
  • p2tog = purl 2 together
  • k2tog = knit 2 together
  • ssk = slip, slip, knit (see how to perform one of these descreases if you don't know, google it)
  • WS = wrong side
  • RS = right side
  • PM = place marker
  • SM = slip marker

Starting with Sole:

Using sole color, Cast on 47(50,52) sts using a long-tail method and with 2 strands held together.


Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: K1, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k1(2,2), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k1. [51(54,56) sts]

Row 3 and all odd rows: Knit.  *knit the yo’s through the back of the loop. 
Row 4: K2, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k3(4,4), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k2.  [55(58,60)sts]

Row 6: K3, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k5(6,6), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k3.  [59(62,64)sts]
Row 8: K4, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k7(8,8), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k4. [63(66,68) sts]

Row 10: K5, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k9(10,10), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k5.  [67(70,72)sts]
 
Row 12: Size Sm ONLY: k6, yo, k22, yo, k11, yo, k22, yo, k6. [71sts]

Row 12: Sizes M/L & XL ONLY: K6, yo, k(23,24), yo, k6, yo, k6, yo, (k23,24), yo, k6. [75,77 sts]
Row 13: Sizes Sm & M/L proceed to #1 of foot.
              
Row 13: Size XL: Knit  (knit the yo's through the back of the loop)
  ------------------------

FOOT 
Change color now if making foot different color than sole.

Row 1: Sizes Sm & M/L ONLY: (RS) Knit (knit the yo’s through the back of the loop) [71(75,--sts]
Row 1: Size XL ONLY: (RS) Knit

Row 2: (WS) P31(33,34), PM, p9(9,9,) PM, p31(33,34).

Row 3: K24(26,27), ssk 2x, k3tog, SM, p2, k5, p2, SM, sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k24(26,27).  [63(67,69)sts] 
Row 4: Purl to M, k2, p5, k2, p to end. 
Row 5: K20(22,23), ssk 2x, k3tog, SM, p2, k2tog, yf, k1, yf, sl-1, k1, psso, p2, SM, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k20(22,23).    [55(59,61)sts]
Row 6: Purl to M, k2, p5, k2, p to end. 

Row 7: K23(25,26), p2, k5, p2, ssk,
 turn.    [54(58,60) sts]
Row 8: Sl-1, k2, p5, k2, p2tog,
 turn.   [53(57,59) sts]

Row 9: Sl-1, SM, p2, k2tog, yf, k1, yf, sl-1, k1, psso, p2, SM, ssk, turn.
  [52(56,58) sts] 
Row 10: Sl-1, k2,p5, k2, p2tog, turn.  [51(55,57)sts]

Row 11: Sl-1, p2, k5, p2, ssk,
 turn. [50(54,56) sts]

Row 12: Sl-1, k2, p5, k2, p2tog,
 turn. [49(53,55) sts]


Row 13: Sl-1, SM, p2, k2tog, yf, k1, yf, sl-1, k1, psso, p2, SM, ssk, turn.
   [48(52,54) sts]
Row 14: Sl-1, k2, p5, k2, p2tog, turn.  [47(51,53) sts]
Rows 15- 18: Repeat rows 11-14   [43(47,49) sts]
Rows 19-22: Repeat rows 11-14  [39(43,45) sts]
Rows 23-26: Repeat rows 11-14 [35(39,41) sts]
Row 27: (RS) Sl-1, p2, k5, p2, ssk, DON’T TURN, k11(13,14).   [34(38,40) sts]
Row 28: P12(14,14) k2, p5, k2,  p2tog, p11(13,14).  [33(37,39) sts]

Row 29: Removing markers as you come to them, knit one row.

Row 30: Size Sm ONLY: P1, p2tog, p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.   [31 sts] 
Row 30: Sizes M/L & XL ONLY:  P1, p2tog, p2tog, p across to last 5 sts, p2tog, p2tog, p1           [33, 35sts]
Row 31:  Knit

Row 32:  Purl

Rows 33-40: Rep rows 31 & 32 4x.


------------------------------- 

Cuff  (change color here if you want cuff to be a different color)


Row 41: Size Sm ONLY: k1, p1, across, end with K1.  Now go to row 44-45.  

Row 41: Size M/L ONLY: [k1, p1] 8x, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] to end.  Now go to row 44-45.    [32,-- sts]
Row 41 & 42: Size XL ONLY: Repeat rows 31 & 32 once more.  
Row 43: Size XL ONLY: [k1, p1] 8x, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] to end.   [--,34 sts]
Rows 44-45: 1x1 rib.
Row 46: Purl
Row 47: Knit
Row 48: Purl
Row 49: Bind off loosely.
Sew seam using single strand of matching color(s).  I turn the slipper inside out and seam using a simple whipstitch.  Take care to make your stitches small and close together for best results. 
Weave in any loose ends. 
Wear and enjoy!


To Download, View or Print, click on the link below: 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_oZ8-XeMq3pc2hfaDB5Z2VBMlE/view?usp=sharing 

Sunday, September 11, 2016

Better Dorm Boots - Free Knitting Pattern!


I see so many projects on Ravelry where the knitter has used my Crocodilly Mocs pattern and changed it up a bit with a ribbed cuff instead of the crocodile stitch.  I'd thought I'd go ahead and write it up as a pattern for those not interested in a croc stitch cuff.  
This really is, in my opinion, a better "dorm boot".  Made the same way as the traditional dorm boot, knit flat and seamed at the end.  These knit up fairly fast - I can knit one slipper in 2 hours. 

To download, view or print this pattern, scroll down past the last picture and click on the link.



Materials:  
Worsted weight yarn (use 2 strands of worsted held tog.)
Sole:  92(100, 114) yds
Slipper body: 92(110, 124) yds


U.S. Size 9 (5.5mm) needles

Wms Sizes: Sm (6-7.5), M/L (8-9), XL (9.5-10.5)

Gauge: 14 sts = 4” in Stockinette (w yarn held double)

Abbreviations:
  • k = knit
  • p = purl
  • yo = yarn over
  • sl-1 = slip one
  •  PSSO = pass slipped stitch over
  • p2tog = purl 2 together
  • k2tog = knit 2 together
  • ssk = slip, slip, knit (see how to perform one of these descreases if you don't know, google it)
  • WS = wrong side
  • RS = right side
  • PM = place marker

Starting with Sole:

Using sole color, Cast on 47(50,52) sts using a long-tail method and with 2 strands held together.


Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: K1, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k1(2,2), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k1. [51(54,56) sts]

Row 3 and all odd rows: Knit.  *knit the yo’s through the back of the loop. 
Row 4: K2, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k3(4,4), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k2.  [55(58,60)sts]

Row 6: K3, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k5(6,6), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k3.  [59(62,64)sts]
Row 8: K4, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k7(8,8), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k4. [63(66,68) sts]

Row 10: K5, yo, k22(23,24), yo, k9(10,10), yo, k22(23,24), yo, k5.  [67(70,72)sts]
 
Row 12: Size Sm ONLY: k6, yo, k22, yo, k11, yo, k22, yo, k6. [71sts]

Row 12: Sizes M/L & XL ONLY: K6, yo, k(23,24), yo, k6, yo, k6, yo, (k23,24), yo, k6. [75,77 sts]
Row 13: Sizes Sm & M/L proceed to #1 of foot.
              
Row 13: Size XL: Knit  (knit the yo's through the back of the loop)
  ------------------------

FOOT 
Change color now if making foot different color than sole.
Row 1: Size Sm ONLY:  (RS)  k34, k2tog, k35. (knit the yo's through the back of the loop)   [70 sts]

Row 1: Size M/L ONLY: (RS) Knit (knit the yo’s through the back of the loop)
Row 1: Size XL ONLY: (RS) Knit

Row 2: (WS) P31(33,34), PM, p8(9,9), PM, p31(33,34).

Row 3: K24(26,27), ssk 2x, k3tog, k8(9,9), sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k24(26,27). [62(67,69)sts) 
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: K20(22,23), ssk 2x, k3tog, k8(9,9), sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k20(22,23). 54(59,61)sts]
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: K31(34,35), ssk,
 turn.    [53(58,60) sts]

Row 8: Sl-1, p8(9,9), p2tog,
 turn.   [52(57,59) sts]
Row 9: Sl-1, k8(9,9), ssk, turn.
  [51(56,58) sts] 
Row 10: Sl-1, p8(9,9), p2tog, turn.  [50(55,57) sts]
Rows 11-26: Repeat rows 9 & 10.   [34(39,41)sts]

Row 27: (RS) Sl-1, k8(9,9), ssk, DON’T TURN, k11(13,14).   [33(38,40)sts]
Row 28: P20(23,24), p2tog, p11(13,14).  [32(37,39) sts]

Row 29: Removing markers as you come to them, knit one row.

Row 30: Size Sm ONLY: P1, p2tog, p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.    [30 sts].
Row 30: Sizes M/L & XL ONLY:  P1, p2tog, p2tog, p across to last 5 sts, p2tog, p2tog, p1           [33, 35sts]

Row 31:  Knit

Row 32:  Purl

-------------------------------

Ribbed Cuff (change color here if you want cuff to be a different color)

Row 33: Size Sm ONLY: k1, p1 to end.  Now go to row 36-42.  

Row 33: Size M/L ONLY: [k1, p1] 8x, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] to end.  Now go to row 36-42.            (32,34 sts)
Row 33&34: Size XL ONLY: Repeat rows 31 & 32 once more.  
Row 35: Size XL ONLY: [k1, p1] 8x, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] to end. (32,34 sts) 
Rows 36-42: 1x1 rib. 
Bind off loosely.
Sew seam using single strand of matching color(s).  I turn the slipper inside out and seam using a simple whipstitch.  Take care to make your stitches small and close together for best results. 
Weave in any loose ends. 
Wear and enjoy!

P.S. I lightly spray the bottoms of my slippers with the spray version of "Plasti-Dip" for a non-skip sole.  










To download, view or print this pattern click here: 

Tuesday, September 6, 2016

Playing with thread lace patterns on my kh-270 knitting machine.

Hadn't ever made anything using the thread lace patterning on either my kh-965i or my bulky kh-270 knitting machine.  Thought I'd play a bit today with the bulky.


This first scarf was 40 stitches wide, tension 5.  Using a worsted weight wool (it was a light worsted) as my main yarn, and a very fine cone yarn (no label so I don't know what it was),  as my contrast thread, I used pattern number 227 and knit 1 set up row, set my pattern, put second color in carriage and knit to 400 rows.  Cut second color, turn off patterning and knit one row, latch tool bind off.









The second scarf was 44 stitches wide, tension 7.  Using worsted weight yarn (Plymouth Encore) as my main yarn, and a very fine cone yarn as my contrast thread, I used pattern number 209, and knit 1 set up row, set my pattern, knit across, put second color in carriage and knit to 300 rows. Cut second color, turn off patterning and knit one row, latch tool bind off.













This 3rd scarf was 48 stitches wide, tension 5, Using sock weight yarn as my main yarn, and a very fine cone yarn as my contrast thread, I used pattern number 227 and knit 1 set up row, set my pattern, knit across, put second color in carriage and knit to 325 rows.  Cut second color, turn off patterning and knit one row, latch tool bind off.












All vary in length but can easily be looped around to make a nice looking scarf length.  I steam blocked them lightly but still have the dreaded curl so I think I will have to go back and more aggressively block them.  I can't decide if I will add fringe to these or leave them as is.  I like them all, especially the first one.

Thursday, September 1, 2016

A skeet shooting set for my nephew - Knit





I had seen a picture of someones project of a cute little french sailor stuffie on one of the knitting groups, I thought how cute it would be to make a little hunting buddy for my little nephew.
I come from a hunting/shooting family.  My nephew now sees his daddy get ready to go shooting or hunting and of course he is far to little to go along.  For his birthday I got him a plastic shotgun and crocheted him some pretend "sporting clays" to shoot at.  (the gun doesn't actually shoot anything, just makes a sound, but he can pretend to shoot).  The little orange discs actually fly REALLY well when you toss them (as you toss a frisbee).
I also then knit 3 "hunting buddies".  The hunting buddies can stand and watch him shoot his sporting clays.  I thought I'd give a brief recap of how I made everything.

*I am posting this for others who might want to make the same thing - not asking for any political comments about hunting, shooting or guns.  We all have our own beliefs. We are generations of a gun safe family who has always followed the gun safety guidelines, obeyed the law etc. *

The little "hunting buddies" could be made to be fishing buddies, football buddies, hockey buddies, etc.  I plan on doing more ideas later.



The hunting buddies were made based on a picture I saw - the person who made hers used this freebie pattern: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/petit-marin-2 


The pattern is in french I don't read french, so I winged it.  Here is how I did mine. 

Using #2 (2.75 mm) needles and sock weight type yarns.
Cast on 52 sts.
St st 6 rows of black or brown for shoes/boots
St st 4 rows of white for socks
St st 30 rows of camo yarn for pants
St st 24 rows of shirt color
Switch to #1 (2.25 mm) needles
1x1 rib for 1 row (still in shirt color)
Switch back to #2 needle
15 rows of face color
k3, k2tog, repeat across
k2, k2tog, repeat across
k1, k2tog, repeat across
k2tog, repeat across
Cut yarn, using daring needle, thread thru remaining stitches and pull to gather. Knot securely.

Before stitching the back seam I hand stitched the detail of the face (eyes, eyebrows, mouth).

Next I stitched the back seam of my little guy using my sewing machine.  
Using a darning needle, I then used one color yarn (I tried to use one that was the most generic and blended in with the colors used for the clothing, in my case it was a med. green.) First I gathered just below the 1x1 ribbing of the neck, then I stitched the shaping of the legs and arms.  I started by slightly gathering at the ankles, then I stitched the center leg to crotch area.  Next I stitched the arm definition.
Lastly I used the same yarn as I knit for the shoes and stitched the bottoms of the shoes closed.

To make the beanie type hat I used #2 needle, cast on 52 sts

15 rows of hat color
k3, k2tog, repeat across
k2, k2tog, repeat across
k1, k2tog, repeat across
k2tog, repeat across
Cut yarn, using daring needle, thread thru remaining stitches and pull to gather. Knot securely.
Sew back seam.
Make pom-pom, sew on pom pom.

The scarves were made a variety of ways but only took minutes - it can be a short length of knitting or crochet - I'm sure you can figure it out.  You could also cut a tiny square kerchief out of fabric also.

To make the sporting clays I crocheted them. 

Using size F (3.75 mm) crochet hook
ch 2
6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl into 1st sc to join.
ch1 & 2 sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in each sc around sl into 1st sc to join .  [12 sc]
ch1 & sc in 1st sc, *2 sc in next, 1 sc in next*, rep to end of round, end with 2 sc in last sc. Sl to join.
ch1 & sc in 1st sc, 1 sc, 2 sc in next, *2 sc, 2 sc in next*, rep to end of round. Sl to join. [24 sc]
ch1 & sc in 1st sc, 2 sc, 2 sc in next, *3 sc, 2 sc in next*, rep to end of round. Sl to join. [30 sc]
ch1 & sc in 1st sc, 3 , sc, 2 sc in next, *4 sc, 2 sc in next*, rep to end of round. Sl to join. [36 sc]
ch1 & sc in 1st sc, 4 sc, 2 sc in next, *5 sc, 2 sc in next*, rep to end of round. Sl to join. [42 sc]
ch1 & sc in 1st sc, 5 sc, 2 sc in next, *6 sc, 2 sc in next*, rep to end of round. Sl to join. [48 sc]
Cut yarn and secure.
Make another one the same way but don't cut yarn at the end, and ch1.  Hold the first one behind and against the second one, sc into the both of them held together, continue to sc the two together until you reach the end of the round.  Sl into the first sc, ch 1 & sc into same sc as join, 9 sc, sc2tog, *10 sc, sc2tog* rep to end of round. Sl into first sc, tie off and cut yarn.
One sporting clay complete!  I made 6 of these to make a "set".  I had the perfect size little box to put them in and I wrote wording and made a drew and colored the sporting clay on the box.