Thursday, August 11, 2016

Indian Summer Top

©2016 Kris Basta



A late summer/early fall pullover that looks great with a colorful tank top underneath.  Knit with a cotton or cotton blend worsted weight yarn, this top is cool and drapey.  This is knit on circular needles, you will start with a shorter needle but then once you've increased to a certain point that the stitches get crowded on the needle, you will want to switch to a longer circular needle to accommodate the larger number of stitches.  As this is a garter stitch project, and is knit in the round, you will be knitting one row, then purling the next.

Edited for a few corrections on 8/14/16

To Download, view, or print this pattern, scroll to the bottom of the directions and click on the link.

Size: one size fits bust size 34 - 38  (*please note, this pattern can easily be upsized or downsized simply by increasing or decreasing in increments of 2, to your own fit).

Materials and Tools:
Cotton or cotton blend worsted weight yarn, I used Cascade yarns "Avalon"
4.5 skeins 790 yds.

8 Stitch Markers - I suggest having one that is a different color from the other 7.

Circular Knitting Needles
Size 10 (6 mm), length 24" and length 36"
Size 9 (5.5mm)
2 Spare circular needles (size not terribly important) or holders to hold many stitches.

Gauge: 15 sts and 28 rows = 4" in Garter Stitch.

Abbreviations:
K = knit
P = purl
PM = place marker
yo = yarn over
k2tog = knit 2 together
SM = slip marker
Rep = repeat
rnd = round
M = marker

Tips:
  • I recommend using the markers if you are a person who heavily relys on markers.  I myself don't actually use them once I know the established pattern (the yarn overs with one stitch between), but that is your option if you use them or not.
  • On this pattern please note that the largest number of stitches between markers are the sleeves, not the body.  I know that seems weird but trust me that is correct.  

DIRECTIONS:


Using the shorter #10 circular needle and long tail cast on method,
Cast on 84 sts and join in the round.
1.  Knit
2.  Purl
3.  *k2tog, yo, rep from * to end.
4.  Purl
5.  Knit
6.  P27, PM, p1, PM, p13, PM, p1, PM, P27, PM, p1, PM, p13, PM, p1, PM. (Please make this last marker the one that is the different color from the others as this will mark your starting point.)

7.  Slip the first (diff colored) marker, Yo, k to M, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to M, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to M, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to M, yo, SM, k1.   [92 sts]

8.  Slipping markers as you go, purl around.

9.  Rep rows 7 & 8 until you have 332 sts (change to longer circular needle when you get to crowded on the shorter needle)  Total sts should be like this, 89 sts and 1 st between M's in first section(sleeve), 75 sts and 1 st between M's in second section(body), 89 sts and 1 st in between M's in 3rd section(sleeve), and 75 sts and 1 st between M's in last section(body).

10. *Please note, you will now be increasing the sleeve sections but NOT increasing the body sections.
Slip the first (diff colored) marker, k to M, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k2tog, k to 2 before M, k2tog, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to M, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k2tog, k to 2 before M, k2tog, yo, SM, k1.    [336 sts]

11. Slipping markers as you go, purl around.

12. Rep 10 & 11 until you have 344 sts like this, 95 sts and 1 st between M's in first section, 75 sts and 1 st between M's in second section, 95 sts and 1 st in between M's in 3rd section, and 75 sts and 1 st between M's in last section).

13. Slip the first (diff colored) marker, *yo, k2tog, k to 2 before M, k2tog, yo, SM, k1.  Rep from * around. (this will keep the yarn over pattern but will not increase any further).

14.  Slipping markers as you go, purl around.

15. Rep 13 & 14 until piece measures 12" from cast on edge.

16. Knit (do not do any yarn overs)
17. Purl

You will now separate the body from the sleeves.

18. Removing M's as you go:  Use 2nd needle, or a scrap piece of yarn to hold the first 96 sts (these are a sleeve),  continue now and knit the next 76 sts, again using a spare needle or scrap yarn, place the next 96 sts on hold (second sleeve), continue and knit the next 76 sts.  You now have a total of 152 sts that are the front & back of the body.  The stitches on the holders/spare needles are your sleeves.

Work body stitches:

PM to mark beg of rnd.  Continue now working in the round for the body,
19 Purl
20 Knit
21 Purl
22. Rep #19 & 20 until you have 15 garter ridges from underarm.
23. YO, k2tog, rep to end.
24. Change to Size 9 needle, Purl.
25. Knit.
26. Purl
27. Bind off.

Work sleeves both this same way:
28. Using #10 needle, Tie on yarn at underarm, knit around, pick up and knit 2 stitches at the end from the body, PM.
29. Purl
30. Knit
31. Purl
32-33. Rep 30 & 31 1x more. (if you'd like your sleeves a bit longer than shown in the pictures, then here is where you'd want to add more rows of garter)

34. YO, k2tog, rep to end.
Change to Size 9 needle
35. Purl
36. Knit
37. Purl
38. Bind off.

39. Weave in all yarn ends.
I did not block mine, I simply washed it in the washing machine, dried it half way in my dryer, then laid it flat to dry the rest of the way.

To download, view, or print this pattern, click on this link: 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_oZ8-XeMq3pWi1yNVJlcTJITms/view?usp=sharing




Saturday, March 26, 2016

Free Crochet Pattern - Ahh Spa Slippers for Men

Spaaaah comfortable. 


Now in Men's sizes!  
This pattern has been fully tested by a wonderful group of Ravelry testers.
Working a sequence of front loop only and back loop only makes for a unique shaping.  Yarn held double, large hook size and SC's throughout, this works up SUPER fast!  These are soft and squooshy and would make a wonderful gift. Very easy, I would call this a easy-intermediate pattern. 
To Download, View, or Print  this pattern please scroll all the way down past the pictures and click on the link.
For Women's sizes click here: Ahh Spa Slippers for Women

 

Materials/Tools

Worsted weight yarn (held double) 240-325 yds
Size J (6mm) Crochet hook 
Darning needle
1 stitch marker (or paper clip if you're desperate!)


 Gauge: 

3 sc per inch & 3.5 rows per inch in sc.


Mens Sizes: Sm(M, L, XL) 

 SM = 8/9, M = 9.5/10.5, L =11/12, XL =12.5/13.5

 

Abbreviations:

sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
sctbl = single crochet through back loop
sctfl = single crochet through front loop
sc2togtbl = single crochet 2 together through back loop
ch1 = chain 1
slst = slip stitch
rep = repeat

References:

Magic ring for crochet:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLUaywX0-WE
  

Did you do a gauge swatch?  If not, don't be mad if your slipper is too small/large....


Directions

* You will use 2 strands of Yarn held together throughout

Using Magic ring, sc 8(8,9,9) in ring, join with slst.

1. Ch1, 2 sc in join and 2 sc in each sc, join with slst in top of ch1 .     16(16,18,18) scs
2. Sm ONLY: Ch1, 2 sc in join and 2 sc in each of next 6 scs, 1 sc, 2 sc in each of next 7 sc, 1 sc.   (30) scs
M ONLY:  Ch1, 2sc in join and 2 sc in each sc.     (32) scs
L ONLY:  Ch1, 1 sc in join, 2 sc in each of next 7 scs, 1 sc, 2 sc in each of next 8 sc, 1 sc. (33) scs
XL ONLY: Ch1, 1 sc in join, 2 sc in each of next 8 sc, 1 sc, 2 sc in each of last 8 scs. (34) scs
    
*Now you will work in rounds, no need to join with slst just go right to next stitch in round. 

3. 11(12,12,13) sctfl, 2 sctbl, 2 sctfl, 11(12,13,13) sctbl, 2 sctfl, 2 sctbl. 


4. Rep step 3 for 14(14,15,16) more rounds.  You should have 15(15,16,17) ridges on bottom of foot. (do not count the last row you worked, just the visible ridges in previous rows.

At this point you should try it on, the ridges are at the bottom of the foot.  Your slipper foot should be of length to fit about like this (pictures below) and should be about 1" (ish) from the crook of your foot/ankle. *You can always add one more row or pull out one more row to get the right foot length, just make sure to count your ridges to make the second one the same way.




Now you will turn and work on the heel, on just 19(20,21,21) sts. (you are no longer working in the round). Normally you ch1 and turn but for these slippers you do NOT ch1 when you turn.  Simply turn, making sure you do not skip the first sc.

5.  19(20,21,21) sc, turn.

6.  Rep last row 6x(7x,8x,9x) more.

7.  7(7,7,7) sc, sc2tog, 1(2,3,3) sc, sc2tog, 7(7,7,7) sc.     17(18,19,19) sts
    

8.   6(6,6,6) sc, sc2tog, 1(2,3,3) sc, sc2tog, 6(6,6,6)
     15(15,17,17) sts
      

9.  Pull up your last loop slightly, just so it doesn't come undone, pull out the hook, fold heel in half as shown in picture, insert hook from the opposite side of the last stitch worked.  Grab loop and pull it through the opposite side, ch1.  Please note that there will be a gap/hole created where the two sides of the heel come together - this is correct, you will stitch that closed later.



Now you will work in the round again making the cuff of the slipper.



10.  10(11,12,13) sc down the side of the slipper, 11(12,12,13) sc across the top (front) of slipper, 10(11,12,13) sc across the other side of slipper, use marker to mark the beginning sc, no need to join with a slst, just keep working in the round.    31(34,36,39) sts



11. 9(10,11,12) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 9(10,10,11) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 9(10,11,12) sctbl.  Remove marker from row below and now place in first sc. 29(32,34,37) sts



12. 8(9,10,11) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 9(10,10,11) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 8(9,10,11) sctbl, join with a slst into top of first sc.
Cut yarn, fasten off.

Turn slipper inside out to stitch the open gap.  Use a darning needle and a tail of yarn.
Also make sure you secure the tail from the original magic ring so that it does not come undone.



To Download, view, or print this pattern, click on the link for the PDF file:

Monday, March 14, 2016

Free Crochet Pattern: Ahh Spa Slippers for Women


© 2016 Kris Basta








Spaaaah comfortable.


This pattern has been fully tested by a wonderful group of Ravelry testers.
Working a sequence of front loop only and back loop only makes for a unique shaping.  Yarn held double, large hook size and SC's throughout, this works up SUPER fast!  These are soft and squooshy and would make a wonderful gift. Very easy, I would call this a easy-intermediate pattern.
To Download, View, or Print  this pattern please scroll all the way down past the pictures and click on the link.
For Men's sizes click here: Men's Ahh Spa Slippers

 

Materials/Tools

Worsted weight yarn (held double) 200-295 yds
Size J (6mm) Crochet hook
Darning needle
1 stitch marker (or paper clip if you're desperate!)


 Gauge: 

3 sc per inch & 3.5 rows per inch in sc.


Sizes: Sm(M, L, XL)

 SM = 6/7.5, M = 8/9, L =9.5/10, XL =10.5/11

 

Abbreviations:

sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
sctbl = single crochet through back loop
sctfl = single crochet through front loop
sc2togtbl = single crochet 2 together through back loop
ch1 = chain 1
slst = slip stitch
rep = repeat

References:

Magic ring for crochet:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLUaywX0-WE 

Did you do a gauge swatch?  If not, don't be mad if your slipper is too small/large....

Directions

* You will use 2 strands of Yarn held together throughout

Using Magic ring, sc 7(,7,8,8) in ring, join with slst.

1. Ch1, 2 sc in join and 2 sc in each sc, join with slst in top of ch1 .     14(14,16,16) scs
2. SM/M/XL ONLY:  Ch1, 2sc in join and 2 sc in each sc.     28(28,---,32) scs
    LG ONLY: Ch1, 2 sc in join and 2 sc in each of next 6 scs, 1 sc, 2 sc in each of next 7 sc, 1 sc.   (30) scs

*Now you will work in rounds, no need to join with slst just go right to next stitch in round.

3. 10(10,11,12) sctfl, 2 sctbl, 2 sctfl, 10(10,11,12) sctbl, 2 sctfl, 2 sctbl.


4. Rep step 3 for 12(13,14,14) more rounds.  You should have 13(14,15,15) ridges on bottom of foot. (do not count the last row you worked, just the visible ridges in previous rows.




At this point you should try it on, the ridges are at the bottom of the foot.  Your slipper foot should be of length to fit about like this (pictures below) and should be about 1" (ish) from the crook of your foot/ankle. *You can always add one more row or pull out one more row to get the right foot length, just make sure to count your ridges to make the second one the same way.




















Now you will turn and work on the heel, on just 18(18,19,20) sts. (you are no longer working in the round). Normally you ch1 and turn but for these slippers you do NOT ch1 when you turn.  Simply turn, making sure you do not skip the first sc.

5.  18(18,19,20) sc, turn.

6.  Rep last row 6x(6x,6x,7x) more.

7.  6(6,7,7) sc, sc2tog, 2(2,1,2) sc, sc2tog, 6(6,7,7) sc.     16(16,17,18) sts

8.  Size Sm & Med ONLY: 5(5,-,-) sc, sc2tog 3x, 5(5,-,-) scs.
     Size Lg & XL ONLY: -(-, 6,6) sc, sc2tog, -(-,1,2) sc, sc2tog, -(-,6,6)
     13(13,15,16) sts

9.  Pull up your last loop slightly, just so it doesn't come undone, pull out the hook, fold heel in half as shown in picture, insert hook from the opposite side of the last stitch worked.  Grab loop and pull it through the opposite side, ch1.  Please note that there will be a gap/hole created where the two sides of the heel come together - this is correct, you will stitch that closed later.



Now you will work in the round again making the cuff of the slipper.
10.  10(10,10,11) sc down the side of the slipper, 10(10,11,12) sc across the top (front) of slipper, 10(10,10,11) sc across the other side of slipper, use marker to mark the beginning sc, no need to join with a slst, just keep working in the round.    30(30,31,34) sts
11.  9(9,9,10) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 8(8,9,10) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 9(9,9,10) sctbl.  Remove marker from row below and now place in first sc. 28(28,29,32) sts
12.  8(8,8,9) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 8(8,9,10) sctbl, sc2togtbl, 8(8,8,9) sctbl, join with a slst into top of first sc.
Cut yarn, fasten off.

Turn slipper inside out to stitch the open gap.  Use a darning needle and a tail of yarn.
Also make sure you secure the tail from the original magic ring so that it does not come undone.




To Download, view, or print this pattern, click on the link for the PDF file:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_oZ8-XeMq3pczJ0Zzl6aUhiZ1k/view?usp=sharing



Thursday, February 11, 2016

Clipper Scarf - Machine Knit FREE Pattern


 
I was digging around in my gigantic button box the other day, swishing my hand around in it and looking for an interesting button when suddenly I spot a vintage suspender clip.  Yep, the same kind of clip my great grandfather "Papa" used to wear on his suspenders and the same kind you'd find on today's suspenders.  Anyway, I was thinking of some way to use it on a knit project.  Decided it would be a great clip for a scarf.  I've never been a scarf pin kind of person but this is a similar idea.  I decided on a shorter scarf, gathered at one end with a clip sewn into the gather.  The clip I had was old, the metal veneer was worn and scratched a bit, so I decided it might look kind of nifty if I found an interesting button and glued it on to the clip.    I used hot glue and it seems pretty secure.  Scroll down further to see how I made this one. 






How I made this one:

Using my standard gauge KH-965i, I chose a garter carriage pattern (its hard to tell from the pattern book picture but I think it is a mock rib).
Pattern # 467
 I cast on 90 stitches
Tension dial at 8

Knit until I could measure 42" in length.  I wanted to my end result to be 14" wide x 42" long.
After the last row, instead of binding off, I cut yarn leaving a long tail, threaded the tail through a darning needle and thread the needle through each stitch on the needles - remove from needles and gather tightly.  Once gathered I placed my suspender clip, centered in the gather and sandwiched between 2 sides of the gather, and proceeded to stitch the gather shut and the clip between.

Now for the fun part - choose a button that coordinates with your yarn and hot glue it to the suspender clip (top).   I've made a couple of these now and all of the buttons I chose had plastic or metal shanks on the underside of them.  I used wire cutters and I snipped the shank off before gluing them onto the clip so that they'd be flatter and adhere better to the clip.






















Now your button is the top of the clip.

Clip onto the side of the scarf anywhere you like that looks good to you and wear.

You do not need to have a KH-965i, in fact you don't even need a garter carriage, you can basically knit this in any pattern stitch you like, just make it 14" x 42".  There are many tuck stitch and slip stitch patterns that would work great for this.  You could do just straight stockinette, however I'm afraid you'll have your edges do the dreaded roll unless you block the heck out of it.


Where to find these clips:

These are actually pretty easy to find.  I believe JoAnn Fabrics, Michaels, Hobby Lobby, etc will have these, perhaps even Walmart.  If they aren't called suspender clips they may be called mitten clips, pacifier clips or something else.  There are also tons of them on Ebay on any given day. They are usually $1 or $2 a piece.

If you are a hand knitter see here is my hand-knit version:

http://auntekristy.blogspot.com/2016/02/clipper-scarf-hand-knit-free-pattern.html





Clipper Scarf - Hand Knit FREE Pattern

I was digging around in my gigantic button box the other day, swishing my hand around in it and looking for an interesting button when suddenly I spot a vintage suspender clip.  Yep, the same kind of clip my great grandfather "Papa" had on his suspenders and the same kind you'd find on today's suspenders.  Anyway, I was thinking of some way to use it on a knit project.  I decided it would be a great clip for a scarf.  I've never been a scarf pin kind of person but this is a similar idea.  I decided on a shorter scarf, gathered at one end with a clip sewn into the gather.  The clip I had was old, the metal veneer was worn and scratched a bit, so I decided it might look kind of nifty if I found an interesting button and glued it on to the clip.  I used hot glue and it seems pretty secure.  Viola!!


 


 


 














Gauge

16 sts = 4" in Pattern stitch (rows 1 & 2 below)

Tools & Materials

Knitting Needles size 10 1/2 (6.5mm)
Worsted weight yarn, approx. 300 yards
1 Suspender (Mitten, pacifier) clip
Glue gun
Darning needle

Directions:

Cast on 50 Stitches (I prefer long tail cast on).
1. p1, k1, Rep across.
2. Knit
3. Repeat rows 1& 2 until you have approx. 42".

4. After the last row, instead of binding off, I cut yarn leaving a long tail, threaded the tail through a darning needle and thread the needle through each stitch on the needle - remove from needles and gather tightly.  Once gathered I placed my suspender clip, centered in the gather and sandwiched between 2 sides of the gather, and proceeded to stitch the gather shut and the clip between.

Now for the fun part - choose a button that coordinates with your yarn and hot glue it to the suspender clip (top).  My button had a metal shank on the underside, I snipped off with wire cutters to make the underside flat and glue on easier.

























Now your button will become the top of the clip.
Clip onto the side of the scarf anywhere you like that looks good to you and wear.

Notes:

You don't have to do the stitch pattern above, it can be any stitch you like, Garter stitch would be quite nice as well, just make it 13" x 42".    You could do just straight stockinette, however I'm afraid you'll have your edges do the dreaded roll unless you block the heck out of it.

Where to find these clips:

These are actually pretty easy to find.  I believe JoAnn Fabrics, Michaels, Hobby Lobby, etc will have these, perhaps even Walmart.  If they aren't called suspender clips they may be called mitten clips, pacifier clips or something else.  There are also tons of them on Ebay on any given day.  They are usually $1 or $2 a piece.


If you are a machine knitter see here is my machine-knit version:

http://auntekristy.blogspot.com/2016/02/clipper-scarf-machine-knit-free-pattern.html

Monday, September 14, 2015

Machine Knit Pattern: Lil Diamonds Stringy Cowl

*This pattern calls for use of a Garter Carriage. 

Knit with your garter carriage, this one works up quickly.  At the end you will hang your hem on your working needles, drop the first 3 and the last 3 sts and bind off to form a cowl.   The 3 dropped sts on each side will then be unraveled to form your fringe. 

Yay!! no tying on fringe!

To view, download, or print this pattern scroll down past the written directions and click on the link to the pdf.  

For Hand-knitters I have a similar pattern for you here:  Coming Soon! (knitting as fast as I can!)

 

 










Machine: 4.5mm standard gauge (I used a  Brother 965i)
Yarn: I used Tamm 3 ply


Directions:

Cast on 60 sts using waste yarn, knit a few rows in waste yarn.
Using main yarn, knit one row.
Set Garter Carriage up and use pattern number 483.
I used my Point Cams and set the first 4 sts on each side so they would just plain knit, no patterning.
Knit 210 rows in pattern.
Knit one row in plain knit.
On the next row, hand knit the first 4 sts, now just leave this be for a bit.

Pick up and hang your hem up on to your working needles.
Push the first 3 needles and the last 3 needles out, then in again to let the stitches fall off.  Yep, let them fall off as these will be dropped and unraveled later to make your fringe.  Now bind off from the first needle where your working yarn is and bind off across.  You now have your cowl joined.
Tie off, weave in end.
Now you can drop and unravel those 3 sts on each side to make your fringe.  This is done simply by gentle tugging and pulling on the first st and working your way down.   I have a hand knit pattern that uses this same technique, if you'd like to see the fringe pulling video it is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtUHcyS-0Jc 


To View, Download, or Print the instructions click here for the pdf file:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_oZ8-XeMq3pRUxKZzc2a2o2cUE/view?usp=sharing 

Saturday, August 22, 2015

Free Knitting Pattern! Stringy Cowl

This cowl is a piece of cake, knit flat and joined in the round at the end with either a sewn seam OR a 3-needle bind off.  Stitches consist of knits, knit 2 together, yarn overs, and very few purls.  You repeat the same rows over and over.  Maybe a little boring but makes for a fast project, great road trip project, or something to pick up whenever you feel like it and resume with no problem.
The "Stringy" fringe is made simply at the end with dropped stitches - no need to cut fringe and tie on.
To Download, View, or Print scroll all the way down past the bottom group of photos and click on the link to the PDF file.
Happy Knitting!





 

Materials and Tools: 

  • U.S. Size 8 (5mm) knitting needles
  • OPTIONAL for those using the provisional cast on.  An extra knitting needle to be used for the 3-needle bind off.  (size doesn't matter too much, anything between a 6 - 8)
  • Yarn - Sport weight, approx. 250 yds. (I like cotton or cotton blends myself for drapey-ness).
  • OPTIONAL: A little waste yarn in a contrast color for provisional cast on.
  • 2 stitch markers (Optional - if you want to mark the 3 edge sts on each side)

Gauge:

20 sts & 22 rows in stockinette stitch = 4"



Abbreviations:

K = knit
P = purl
yo = yarn over
k2tog = knit 2 together
RS = right side
WS = wrong side

References:

Provisional cast-ons: (here are a few different methods)
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T7OwOpC6CY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-irRySJHCKE

3-needle bind off:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpJUrCX52DU



Tips:

Don't forget your yarn overs before each k2tog. If you forget one your stitch count will be off.
Also be careful NOT to do a yarn over at the end of the row (before the last 3 sts) as this will add an extra stitch and again your count would be off.  Yarn overs are only done before the k2tog's. 

Directions:

**Choose now whether you’d like to make this by starting with a provisional cast-on, which means you will join at the end with a 3-needle bind off,  OR you can just choose a regular cast-on method of your choice, then bind off at the end and sew your seam.
 

Set up:
For Provisional Cast-on (this means you will use a 3-needle bind off at the end) Using waste yarn perform a provisional cast on of your choice, cast on 68 Sts.
For Regular Cast on (this means you will sew your seam at the end.)  Using main yarn, cast on 68 sts using any regular cast on method you prefer.  I myself prefer the long-tail cast on.


With main yarn now:
1. Knit
2. Purl

Pattern rows: (To see a video of pattern rows 1&2 go here) https://youtu.be/TMRYk2aYVJg 

1. (RS) k3, *yo, k2tog*, repeat from * to * (do not yo after that last k2tog!!) until last 3 stitches, k3.
2. (WS) p3, *yo, k2tog*, repeat from * to * (do not yo after that last k2tog!!) until last 3 stitches, p3.

*OPTIONAL:  Place stitch markers after your 3 edge sts at the beginning and before the 3 edge sts at the end.  

Repeat the Pattern rows 1 and 2 until your piece measures 30" from first row, ending with row 2.

Knit one row.

Seaming:  
For those who used a Provisional Cast-on:
Using spare knitting needle, pick up the 68 stitches from the cast on, set aside.

Now, on the end that was the last row you worked, p3 sts, then k1, then place the last st worked back on the left hand needle, drop the other 3 sts off the needle (yep, let 'em drop off the needle, this will become your fringe later) then place that st that you worked (the 4th one) back on the right needle.  On the spare needle, the one with the sts you picked up from the provisional cast on, hold it parallel to the other working needle, right sides together, drop the first 3 sts off the needle.  Now knit a stitch from the provisional cast on side, now you have 2 sts on your right hand needle, pass st 1 over st 2.
Now perform a 3-needle bind off, when you get to the last 3 stitches (on both needles), stop, and let them drop off (again, this will become fringe).  Tie off on the last st worked and weave in end.

For those who used a regular Cast-on:

P3, k1,  k the next st, pass the 4th st on right needle over the 5th one as to bind off, place the new stitch you just made when you bound it off onto the left hand needle, drop those 3 edge sts off of the right hand needle, now place the st that you set onto the left needle back onto the right needle, continue to bind off until 3 sts remain on each needle, drop these last 3 sts on each needle (these will become fringe also).  Cut yarn, tie off and weave in.  Sew your bind off edge to the cast on edge (except those 3 edge stitches on each side which are dropped - don't sew those, they need to stay loose and dropped to pull the fringe.

To make the fringe, start gently tugging at an end where 3 sts were dropped, until a loop works its way out, when one loop comes out tug the next one.  A video showing this is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtUHcyS-0Jc

My cowl was 15.5" wide x 14.75" tall.  (height was measured fringe to fringe.)
You can certainly use different weight yarn, different size needles, add more stitches to get more width (just make sure you are using multiples of 2 plus 6 stitches for the edge sts.) your results in size will vary but do it the way you want it!  :)

I did not block mine, I simply put them in the washing machine and the dryer, and wore them the way they came out.  I love the crazy stringy fringe. 





To Download, View, or Print this pattern, click on the link below for the PDF file:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_oZ8-XeMq3pMlN6VHpZamZHTms/view?usp=sharing