Showing posts with label Free Knitting Pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Free Knitting Pattern. Show all posts

Sunday, November 27, 2016

Better Dorm Boots for MEN! - Free Knitting pattern


Better Dorm Boots ©2016 Kris Basta

A very special thank you to fellow knitter Anne Goodwin for helping test this pattern.  Due to tennis elbow I haven't been able to knit for a while.  I had the pattern mostly written out but it's hard to make sure all is right without test knitting each size.  Anne did just that, corrected numbers for me and tested the fit on most as well.  





*to view or download the pdf file, scroll down to the end of the pattern and click on link.

Materials:


U.S. Size 9 (5.5mm) needles
Worsted weight yarn (use 2 strands of worsted held tog.)
     Sole: 114(120, 130,140) yds 
     Slipper body: 124(136, 142, 158) yds
2 Stitch markers



Mens Sizes: 


Sm (8-9), M (9.5-10.5), Lg (11-12), XL (13)
For womens sizes see here
http://auntekristy.blogspot.com/2016/09/better-dorm-boots-free-knitting-pattern.html


Gauge: 14 sts = 4” in Stockinette (w strands held double)




Abbreviations:


k = knit
p = purl
yo = yarn over 

sl-1 = slip one
PSSO = pass slipped stitch over
p2tog = purl 2 together
k2tog = knit 2 together
ssk = slip, slip, knit (see how to perform one of these descreases if you don't know, google it) 

WS = wrong side
RS = right side
PM = place marker

Rep = repeat



DIRECTIONS: * you will use 2 strands held together throughout the whole slipper.



Starting with Sole:

Using sole color, Cast on 52(55, 57, 59) sts using a long-tail method and with 2 strands held together.
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: K1, yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k2(3,3,3), yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k1.  [56(59,61,63) sts]
Row 3 and all odd rows: Knit. *knit the yo’s through the back of the loop.

Row 4: K2, yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k4(5,5,5), yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k2. [60(63,65,67)sts]


Row 6: K3, yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k6(7,7,7), yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k3. [64(67,69,71)sts]


Row 8: K4, yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k8(9,9,9), yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k4. [68(71,73,75) sts]
 


Row 10: K5, yo, K24(25,26,27), yo, k10(11,11,11), yo, k24(25,26,27), yo, k5. [72(75,77,79)sts]
 

Row 12: Size Sm ONLY: K6, yo, k(24), yo, k6, yo, k6, yo, (k24), yo, k6. [77 sts]

Row 12: Size M ONLY: K6, yo, k32, yo, k31, yo, k6.  [78 sts]
Row 12: Size L ONLY: K6, yo, k to last 6 sts, yo, k6.  [79 sts]
Row 12: Size XL ONLY: K39, yo, k40.  [80 sts]
Row 13: Knit (knit any yo's through the back of the loop) 

FOOT

Change color now if making foot different color than sole.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: (WS) P34(34,34,34,), PM, p9(10,11,12), PM, p34(34,34,34,).
Row 3: K27(27,27,27), ssk 2x, k3tog, k9(10,11,12), sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k27(27,27,27). [69(70,71,72) sts)
Row 4: Purl

Row 5: K23(23,23,23), ssk 2x, k3tog, k9(10,11,12), sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k23(23,23,23). [61(62,63,64)sts]
Row 6: Purl

Row 7: K35(36,37,38), ssk,turn. [60(61,62,63) sts] 
Row 8: Sl-1, p9(10,11,12), p2tog,turn. [59(60,61,62) sts] 
Row 9: Sl-1, k9(10,11,12), ssk, turn.[58(59,60,61) sts] 
Row 10: Sl-1, p9(10,11,12), p2tog, turn. [57(58,59,60) sts] 

Rows 11-26: Repeat rows 9 and 10. [41(42,43,44) sts] 

Row 27: (RS) Sl-1, k9(10,11,12), ssk, DON’T TURN, k14(14,14,14).  [40(41,42,43) sts] 

Row 28: P24(25,26,27), p2tog, p14(14,14,14). [39(40,41,42) sts] 
Row 29: Size S/M ONLY: (Removing markers as you come to them) Knit.  Now proceed to row 32.
Row 29: Size L/XL ONLY: (Removing markers as you come to them) Knit. 
Row 30: Size L/XL ONLY: Purl
Row 31: Size L/XL ONLY: Knit
Row 32: P1, p2tog, p2tog, p across to last 5 sts, p2tog, p2tog, p1. 
[35(36,37,38) sts]

Row 33: Knit

Row 34: Purl 

Rows 35-36: Rep rows 33 and 34 once more.

----------------------------------------------------------

RIBBED CUFF


Row 37: Sizes S/L ONLY: [k1,p1] 8(-,8,-)x more, k2tog, p1, [k1,p1] to end.  [34(-,36,-) sts]

Row 37: Size M/XL ONLY: [k1, p1] to end.
Rows 38-45: Work 8 rows of 1x1 rib.

Bind off loosely.

Sew seam using single strand of matching color(s). I turn the slipper inside out and seam using a simple whipstitch. Take care to make your stitches small and close together for best results.


Weave in any loose ends.


Wear and enjoy!
P.S. I spray the bottoms with the spray version on Plasti-dip to make my soles non-skid. 
 

Thursday, August 11, 2016

Indian Summer Top

©2016 Kris Basta



A late summer/early fall pullover that looks great with a colorful tank top underneath.  Knit with a cotton or cotton blend worsted weight yarn, this top is cool and drapey.  This is knit on circular needles, you will start with a shorter needle but then once you've increased to a certain point that the stitches get crowded on the needle, you will want to switch to a longer circular needle to accommodate the larger number of stitches.  As this is a garter stitch project, and is knit in the round, you will be knitting one row, then purling the next.

Edited for a few corrections on 8/14/16

To Download, view, or print this pattern, scroll to the bottom of the directions and click on the link.

Size: one size fits bust size 34 - 38  (*please note, this pattern can easily be upsized or downsized simply by increasing or decreasing in increments of 2, to your own fit).

Materials and Tools:
Cotton or cotton blend worsted weight yarn, I used Cascade yarns "Avalon"
4.5 skeins 790 yds.

8 Stitch Markers - I suggest having one that is a different color from the other 7.

Circular Knitting Needles
Size 10 (6 mm), length 24" and length 36"
Size 9 (5.5mm)
2 Spare circular needles (size not terribly important) or holders to hold many stitches.

Gauge: 15 sts and 28 rows = 4" in Garter Stitch.

Abbreviations:
K = knit
P = purl
PM = place marker
yo = yarn over
k2tog = knit 2 together
SM = slip marker
Rep = repeat
rnd = round
M = marker

Tips:
  • I recommend using the markers if you are a person who heavily relys on markers.  I myself don't actually use them once I know the established pattern (the yarn overs with one stitch between), but that is your option if you use them or not.
  • On this pattern please note that the largest number of stitches between markers are the sleeves, not the body.  I know that seems weird but trust me that is correct.  

DIRECTIONS:


Using the shorter #10 circular needle and long tail cast on method,
Cast on 84 sts and join in the round.
1.  Knit
2.  Purl
3.  *k2tog, yo, rep from * to end.
4.  Purl
5.  Knit
6.  P27, PM, p1, PM, p13, PM, p1, PM, P27, PM, p1, PM, p13, PM, p1, PM. (Please make this last marker the one that is the different color from the others as this will mark your starting point.)

7.  Slip the first (diff colored) marker, Yo, k to M, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to M, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to M, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to M, yo, SM, k1.   [92 sts]

8.  Slipping markers as you go, purl around.

9.  Rep rows 7 & 8 until you have 332 sts (change to longer circular needle when you get to crowded on the shorter needle)  Total sts should be like this, 89 sts and 1 st between M's in first section(sleeve), 75 sts and 1 st between M's in second section(body), 89 sts and 1 st in between M's in 3rd section(sleeve), and 75 sts and 1 st between M's in last section(body).

10. *Please note, you will now be increasing the sleeve sections but NOT increasing the body sections.
Slip the first (diff colored) marker, k to M, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k2tog, k to 2 before M, k2tog, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to M, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k2tog, k to 2 before M, k2tog, yo, SM, k1.    [336 sts]

11. Slipping markers as you go, purl around.

12. Rep 10 & 11 until you have 344 sts like this, 95 sts and 1 st between M's in first section, 75 sts and 1 st between M's in second section, 95 sts and 1 st in between M's in 3rd section, and 75 sts and 1 st between M's in last section).

13. Slip the first (diff colored) marker, *yo, k2tog, k to 2 before M, k2tog, yo, SM, k1.  Rep from * around. (this will keep the yarn over pattern but will not increase any further).

14.  Slipping markers as you go, purl around.

15. Rep 13 & 14 until piece measures 12" from cast on edge.

16. Knit (do not do any yarn overs)
17. Purl

You will now separate the body from the sleeves.

18. Removing M's as you go:  Use 2nd needle, or a scrap piece of yarn to hold the first 96 sts (these are a sleeve),  continue now and knit the next 76 sts, again using a spare needle or scrap yarn, place the next 96 sts on hold (second sleeve), continue and knit the next 76 sts.  You now have a total of 152 sts that are the front & back of the body.  The stitches on the holders/spare needles are your sleeves.

Work body stitches:

PM to mark beg of rnd.  Continue now working in the round for the body,
19 Purl
20 Knit
21 Purl
22. Rep #19 & 20 until you have 15 garter ridges from underarm.
23. YO, k2tog, rep to end.
24. Change to Size 9 needle, Purl.
25. Knit.
26. Purl
27. Bind off.

Work sleeves both this same way:
28. Using #10 needle, Tie on yarn at underarm, knit around, pick up and knit 2 stitches at the end from the body, PM.
29. Purl
30. Knit
31. Purl
32-33. Rep 30 & 31 1x more. (if you'd like your sleeves a bit longer than shown in the pictures, then here is where you'd want to add more rows of garter)

34. YO, k2tog, rep to end.
Change to Size 9 needle
35. Purl
36. Knit
37. Purl
38. Bind off.

39. Weave in all yarn ends.
I did not block mine, I simply washed it in the washing machine, dried it half way in my dryer, then laid it flat to dry the rest of the way.

To download, view, or print this pattern, click on this link: 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_oZ8-XeMq3pWi1yNVJlcTJITms/view?usp=sharing

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Saturday, August 22, 2015

Free Knitting Pattern! Stringy Cowl

This cowl is a piece of cake, knit flat and joined in the round at the end with either a sewn seam OR a 3-needle bind off.  Stitches consist of knits, knit 2 together, yarn overs, and very few purls.  You repeat the same rows over and over.  Maybe a little boring but makes for a fast project, great road trip project, or something to pick up whenever you feel like it and resume with no problem.
The "Stringy" fringe is made simply at the end with dropped stitches - no need to cut fringe and tie on.
To Download, View, or Print scroll all the way down past the bottom group of photos and click on the link to the PDF file.
Happy Knitting!





 

Materials and Tools: 

  • U.S. Size 8 (5mm) knitting needles
  • OPTIONAL for those using the provisional cast on.  An extra knitting needle to be used for the 3-needle bind off.  (size doesn't matter too much, anything between a 6 - 8)
  • Yarn - Sport weight, approx. 250 yds. (I like cotton or cotton blends myself for drapey-ness).
  • OPTIONAL: A little waste yarn in a contrast color for provisional cast on.
  • 2 stitch markers (Optional - if you want to mark the 3 edge sts on each side)

Gauge:

20 sts & 22 rows in stockinette stitch = 4"



Abbreviations:

K = knit
P = purl
yo = yarn over
k2tog = knit 2 together
RS = right side
WS = wrong side

References:

Provisional cast-ons: (here are a few different methods)
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T7OwOpC6CY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-irRySJHCKE

3-needle bind off:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpJUrCX52DU



Tips:

Don't forget your yarn overs before each k2tog. If you forget one your stitch count will be off.
Also be careful NOT to do a yarn over at the end of the row (before the last 3 sts) as this will add an extra stitch and again your count would be off.  Yarn overs are only done before the k2tog's. 

Directions:

**Choose now whether you’d like to make this by starting with a provisional cast-on, which means you will join at the end with a 3-needle bind off,  OR you can just choose a regular cast-on method of your choice, then bind off at the end and sew your seam.
 

Set up:
For Provisional Cast-on (this means you will use a 3-needle bind off at the end) Using waste yarn perform a provisional cast on of your choice, cast on 68 Sts.
For Regular Cast on (this means you will sew your seam at the end.)  Using main yarn, cast on 68 sts using any regular cast on method you prefer.  I myself prefer the long-tail cast on.


With main yarn now:
1. Knit
2. Purl

Pattern rows: (To see a video of pattern rows 1&2 go here) https://youtu.be/TMRYk2aYVJg 

1. (RS) k3, *yo, k2tog*, repeat from * to * (do not yo after that last k2tog!!) until last 3 stitches, k3.
2. (WS) p3, *yo, k2tog*, repeat from * to * (do not yo after that last k2tog!!) until last 3 stitches, p3.

*OPTIONAL:  Place stitch markers after your 3 edge sts at the beginning and before the 3 edge sts at the end.  

Repeat the Pattern rows 1 and 2 until your piece measures 30" from first row, ending with row 2.

Knit one row.

Seaming:  
For those who used a Provisional Cast-on:
Using spare knitting needle, pick up the 68 stitches from the cast on, set aside.

Now, on the end that was the last row you worked, p3 sts, then k1, then place the last st worked back on the left hand needle, drop the other 3 sts off the needle (yep, let 'em drop off the needle, this will become your fringe later) then place that st that you worked (the 4th one) back on the right needle.  On the spare needle, the one with the sts you picked up from the provisional cast on, hold it parallel to the other working needle, right sides together, drop the first 3 sts off the needle.  Now knit a stitch from the provisional cast on side, now you have 2 sts on your right hand needle, pass st 1 over st 2.
Now perform a 3-needle bind off, when you get to the last 3 stitches (on both needles), stop, and let them drop off (again, this will become fringe).  Tie off on the last st worked and weave in end.

For those who used a regular Cast-on:

P3, k1,  k the next st, pass the 4th st on right needle over the 5th one as to bind off, place the new stitch you just made when you bound it off onto the left hand needle, drop those 3 edge sts off of the right hand needle, now place the st that you set onto the left needle back onto the right needle, continue to bind off until 3 sts remain on each needle, drop these last 3 sts on each needle (these will become fringe also).  Cut yarn, tie off and weave in.  Sew your bind off edge to the cast on edge (except those 3 edge stitches on each side which are dropped - don't sew those, they need to stay loose and dropped to pull the fringe.

To make the fringe, start gently tugging at an end where 3 sts were dropped, until a loop works its way out, when one loop comes out tug the next one.  A video showing this is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtUHcyS-0Jc

My cowl was 15.5" wide x 14.75" tall.  (height was measured fringe to fringe.)
You can certainly use different weight yarn, different size needles, add more stitches to get more width (just make sure you are using multiples of 2 plus 6 stitches for the edge sts.) your results in size will vary but do it the way you want it!  :)

I did not block mine, I simply put them in the washing machine and the dryer, and wore them the way they came out.  I love the crazy stringy fringe. 





To Download, View, or Print this pattern, click on the link below for the PDF file:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_oZ8-XeMq3pMlN6VHpZamZHTms/view?usp=sharing


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Friday, February 13, 2015

Free Knitting Pattern! Ridgley Mittens

Fun and different!
Level of difficulty: Intermediate

You will need to be acquainted with W&T, picking up wraps, and 3-needle bind off.
These mittens are knit flat, sideways, using short rows to shape. To finish off you do not need to sew, but will use a 3-needle bind off.
These are both “knit flat”, and “knit in the round” the mitten is knit flat on size 7 needles, the thumbs are knit in the round on size 6 DPNs.
These can be made in one solid color or 2 color stripes.  The garter stitch makes these very squooshy and comfy.
To Download, Print, or save this pattern scroll down just above the last picture and see the link to click on.

Sizes are for Women, Sm, Med, Lg.

Gauge: 18 1/2 sts & 40 rows per 4" in garter stitch.  It is important
to gauge as worsted weight yarn varies SO much in thickness and you want to ensure a proper fitting mitten.

Materials/Tools
Worsted weight yarn approx. 120-140 yds.
Size 7 (4.5mm) knitting needles
1 extra knitting needle either in size 7 (4.5mm) or a
size or two smaller.
Size 6 DPNs for the thumb
Stitch marker or pc of contrast color yarn to mark right side.
Abbreviations:
-->
K = Knit            
P = Purl               
Stst = stockinette stitch
CO = cast on    
BO = Bind off      
W&T Wrap and turn  
RS =right side   
yb = yarn back  
k2tog = knit 2 together 
sl = slip             
yf = yarn forward
Rep = Repeat    
wyib = with yarn in back    
ssk = slip, slip, knit them togeteher (a left lean decrease)

References:
Video showing how to do the 3-needle bind off: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpJUrCX52DU 
Video showing how to do the W&T:  http://newstitchaday.com/wrap-and-turn/

DIRECTIONS:
Using long tail cast on, CO 44(46,48) sts, leave a 6” or so tail to gather mitten top at the end.  *you may also use a provisional cast on it you prefer (at the end you will pick up stitches to perform a 3-needle bind off).
  
-->  1.     Knit. 
*if using 2 colors for these mittens, you would need to tie on new color now.  You will work each color for 2 rows.  W&T’s count as 2 rows.
2.     K38(39,40) W&T, K38(39,40).
3.     Picking up wrap as you go, K39(40,41), W&T, K39(40,41).
4.     Picking up wrap as you go, K40(41,42), W&T, K40(41,42).
5.     Picking up wrap as you go, K41(42,43), W&T, K41(42,43).
6.     Picking up wrap as you go, K42(43,44), W&T, K42(43,44).
7.     Picking up wrap as you go, K43(44,45), W&T, K43(44,45).

Sm Size Only: Proceed to row 8.

Med size only:
Picking up wrap as you go, K45, W&T, K45.
Proceed to row 8.

Lg Size Only: 
Picking up wrap as you go, K46, W&T, K46. 
Picking up wrap as you go, K47, W&T, K47.       

  8. Knit across picking up the last wrap.  *Please tie a contrast color piece of yarn or use a marker to  mark this side as your right side.  You will need to know it later.
       9.  Knit Across.  
10.     K43(45,47), W&T, K43(45,47).
11.     K42(44,46), W&T, K42(44,46).
12.     K41(43,45), W&T, K41(43,45).
13.     K40(42,44), W&T, K40(42,44).
14.     K39(41,43), W&T, K39(41,43).
15.     K38(40,42), W&T, K38(40,42).

Sm Size Only: Proceed to row 16 .

Med Size Only:
K39, W&T, k39.
Proceed to row 16.

Lg Size Only:
K(41) W&T, K(41).
K(40), W&T, K(40).

16.     K13(15,16), * wyib, sl-1, yf, slip that stich back to the left hand needle, yb, sl same st to right needle again**, bind off next 8(9,9) sts, rep from * to **,         knit remaining sts picking up wraps as you go. 
17. K22(21,22) sts, CO 8(9,9) sts, knit remaining sts  .
18. Rep rows 2-8(8,8)
19. Knit.
20. Rep rows 10-15. (Sizes Med & Lg make sure you work the extra rows between 15 & 16).
21. Knit across, picking up the wraps.
22. The method I chose to close the “seam” was a 3-needle bind off, this will  
produce a ridge on the outside of the mitten.  You can, if you prefer, perform a grafted garter stitch (Kitchener) if you do not want the ridge.
 With RS facing out. starting at the cuff end, use extra knitting needle (I prefer a size or 2 smaller than the 7’s) and pick up 44(46,48) stitches on the original cast on edge.   Perform a 3-needle bind off, placing one edge to the other.  This will make the “seam” on the outside –this is correct.
Now it won’t be against your skin and it looks good because it matches the garter stitch pretty well.  Cut yarn, secure and weave in end.  These mittens will look narrow, but don't fear, they have a lot of stretch!

Close the top of the mitten:
Using the yarn tail at the top of the mitten, thread through darning needle, weave in and out around the top of the mitten, pull to gather.  Secure and cut yarn.  Weave in end.

Thumb:
You will now use your Size 6 DPNs.
Tie on yarn at the bottom (cuff side) of the thumbhole.  Pick up 8(9,9) sts on each side of the thumbhole.  16(18,18) sts.
1.     Knit
2.     K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.   14(16, 16) sts.
3.     Rep last 2 rnds 0(1,1) times.  14(14,14) sts.
4.     Knit until thumb measures 2 ¼ ”(2 ½ “) from where sts were picked up.
5.      *K2tog, rep from * to end of rnd. 7(7,7) sts.
6.     Knit.
7.     Cut yarn leaving about 6” of tail, use darning needle, thread yarn through needle and then thread through all remaining stitches.  Remove needles, cinch/gather all stitches to close the top of the thumb.  Secure and weave in yarn end.

If you’re a member of Ravelry, I hope you’ll post your mitten project so we can all see. 
Happy Knitting!

Kris

To Download, View, Print or Save, Please click on this link for PDF:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_oZ8-XeMq3pMWJzSFdpWVNseTQ/view?usp=sharing 
  
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